You're Right Where You Are
also, phytosphingosine
Hi there!
Happy 2025! If you’re new here, welcome! If you want, you can learn more about me or check out some of my most popular posts from 2024: microcurrent, device gift guide, hand care, dermaplaning, finding an esthetician, basic skin anatomy, wedding stuff.
Has anyone else tried Slurp’s Preparation B? Bad name, excellent product I started using a few weeks ago. I had to try it for myself because my friend Sam loves it and sometimes her skin doesn’t even tolerate water. It’s a potent barrier repair fluid that addresses inflammation, sensitivity and breakouts. Two of the featured ingredients are phytosphingosine + artificial human tears. You don’t see that everyday! Phytosphingosine is a naturally occurring lipid with antibacterial properties, found in the upper layers of skin. It’s crucial to the production of natural moisturizing factors and the precursor to some ceramides. You can find phytosphingosine on plenty of ingredient lists, but the fact that it was centrally called out here makes me predict we’ll be seeing more of it, and similar types of ingredients, in 2025. Partially because it’s flashy marketing—ceramides are old news and unpronounceable long chain fatty acids sound more high-tech. But since Slurp is known for their next-gen formulas, I’m hoping it signals innovation with the use of these types of building block ingredients. It feels related to a prediction I’ve seen around and agree with: the continued rise of biostimulators over filler. Biostimulators (ex: Sculptra) are injections that promote the skin’s own production of collagen. Improving your own supply is the future. I’ll get back to you once I learn more about the artificial human tears. In the meantime, did you know tears contain a lot of an antimicrobial enzyme called lysozyme or that there are actually 3 types of tears and they each have 3 layers?!
🚨 HOTLINE IS OPEN🚨 (it never closes) but I want some fresh questions for 2025! Click the button below to ask your question and you may see it answered in a future issue.
MORE/LESS
Did you make any resolutions? I like the idea of more/less lists. They’re not concretely measurable, so don't feel as resolute, if you will. Just set out to do more, or less, of something. This year, my big more/less line-item came to me unexpectedly.
It started as a bunch of half-formed thoughts borne out of frustration that I was so behind, and then eventually as a crystal clear, remarkably obvious realization that would (and did) make my therapist proud (more of that this year too pls). I’m sharing it because it might be relatable as you start your year and/or think about your skincare routine.
I was feeling impossibly behind on my to-do list. I had given myself extra time off to get things done, but nothing was feeling complete or even close to it. Things kept taking longer than anticipated and I didn’t know how I’d ever catch up.
One task in particular—filling out my planner & our shared calendar—was at a standstill because I couldn’t finalize my schedule between working, teaching, writing, and publishing. I felt frustrated that this seemingly straightforward task was putting me behind on everything else. I’m usually good at logistical problem solving like this. I do it all the time with my clients when building routines or coming up with a treatment plan. So what was the problem?
—
When I’m helping someone build a skincare routine, I take into consideration many aspects of their life, not just their concerns and goals—the amount of time they have in the morning and at night, budget, where they like to shop, any preferences for scents or textures or other sensorial experiences, if they work from home, if they travel for work, if they have kids, if they want a special treat once in a while and so on. I look at the variables and I come up with a solution. But at the same time, regardless of those variables, there is always one place we have to start. It doesn’t matter where they want to go. The foundations of a basic routine—cleanser, moisturizer, sunscreen—have to be established before anything else.
So often I hear people say things like I’m too behind on my skin, it’s hopeless, there’s too much out there, I’ll never understand it all, I don’t know what to try, I should have started sooner, should I just get lasers? What do lasers even do? This is when I remind them about the necessary starting point. They can’t possibly be behind because there’s no option to start from anywhere other than exactly where they are. I reassure them that the answer to feeling less behind and more in control of their skin is actually very simple: nail down a basic routine and focus on consistency. From there, baby steps. Once you’re on your way, it won’t feel so insurmountable. With skin I can see the path forward, so I need to meet you where you’re at to get you there.
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I was trying to figure out every component of my schedule at the same time and doing too much at once. No wonder it seemed impossible. Just like how I think holistically about a routine, I first had to identify the variables and figure out the starting point. What was the foundation of my schedule? It didn’t matter if this would continue to make me “behind” on other things because I had no option but to start there. This is when I started to have the remarkably obvious realization that a lot of the time, there’s no such thing as being behind. I’m always going to be behind! That’s literally how time works! Saying I’m behind doesn’t make me any less behind, it just delays me more. I have no choice but to start where I am. Even if it feels silly. Just like with my clients, I need to meet myself where I’m at to feel some control over the situation. No use getting worked up about being behind and delaying myself more. Besides, stress is really bad for the skin.
MORE: starting where I am, foundation first.
LESS: thinking I’m behind if it’s not going to change my starting point or the pace at which I need to go.
I want to free you from the assumption that you’re behind on your skin because that doesn’t change anything. You’re not behind and this can be your starting point:
The only skincare that works is the skincare you use consistently.
To get in the habit, set yourself up for success by making your routine work for you.
Your routine should be the rule, not the exception. If that’s not the case, you’re doing too much.
We’ll get into these and more routine talk when I introduce you to the 2 Hotline Skin community members who will be documenting their skincare journeys for us this year. (Thank you so much to everyone who applied. The chosen participants have been emailed!)
Three Other Things
My dear friend Lara at Carrie Lindsey Beauty is the only person I’ve regularly gotten facials from in years. She’s also responsible for my brows (and the brows of multiple family members–my mom drives in from Westchester to see her! She’s a witch.) I saw her last week for a 75-minute custom facial and it was heavenly, as usual. As she finished up her signature sculpting massage, she reminded me to stretch my ears. It’s a good reminder and one I would like to pass on to you. It’s easy to forget how much ears carry. Ear massage eases tension in neck, head and jaw muscles. They’re connected to nerve endings. It’s mentally and physically relaxing and you’ll be surprised how good it feels.
I’ve grown increasingly wary of a lot of Instagram dermatologists, but I love following Dr. Samantha Ellis. I’m always learning something new. She recently made a reel responding to someone’s question about a (ultimately nbd) chin Botox complication. After concisely explaining the cause and the options to correct it, she gave a final piece of advice that really stuck out to me: if the person likes that injector overall, she’d encourage her to stick with them because it’s a complication that could happen to even the best injectors. The real thing to look out for, she advised, is how they handle it. What corrections do they offer? Do they walk you through what happened? How honest and helpful! If I lived near Danville, CA and wanted injections, I think I’d try to make an appointment with her. (She’s also the founder of Prequel Skin. Pro-tip for winter: Gleanser as hand wash.)
I had an appointment at Ever/Body yesterday for underarm Botox. It’s been over 5 months since my last appointment. I answered all of your questions about it here!
Take A Rec/Leave A Rec
On the topic of where I get facials and where I do or would get injections, I want to ask you guys the same thing. Have a rec or need a rec for an aesthetic provider? Tell us in the chat!
I want this to be an ongoing resource for subscribers and I’ll figure out a handy place for the link to live. [This will be a crowdsourced list and should not be considered a recommendation or endorsement from me, but obviously I will share recs if I have them.]
Lastly, if you wanted to get a facial with me, my books are now open through March at Practise in Tribeca! You’ll find the most availability in mid-February onwards and if you’re quick you might even be able to snag a weekend spot.
Office Hours Reminder
Office Hours are back, baby! Join us for Office Hours on Sundays. This exclusive weekly opportunity is available to paying subscribers.
Every Sunday at 5pm EST, I’ll begin a new thread for the week in Substack Chat, where you can ask me anything. The next night (Monday) I’ll be answering live in the chat. That way, if you can’t make it, you can submit any time after 5pm Sunday and still get an answer. If you can make it live, join in! You can ask questions in real time and (hopefully) interact with others in class ;)
Before I go, have you watched Silo? We just binged it and it’s all I can think about! I can’t wait for the new episode on Friday.
Have a great week!
xx,
Jolie