Enlarged Pores and Congestion
can you have one and not the other?
Hello hello! Happy Tuesday.
Back to regular programming today, answering a question I received in Office Hours a few weeks ago.
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Hi! Question that I hope others might have/might inspire a bigger post. But would love to understand how pore size and congestion are correlated. Specifically, can you have "large" or visible pores without evident congestion ie black heads? Or do large pores always indicate congestion? Also laddering up to a product question, but are there products that target pore size but not necessarily congestion like a salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide acid would? Let me know if this question makes sense.
It makes total sense and did inspire a bigger post. Thanks for the idea! While I am often asked about enlarged pores and blackheads, but it was the first time I recall being asked about their relationship in this way. Fun!
You can definitely have visible pores that aren’t prone to congestion and vice versa—very small pores that do get congested. While there is a correlation between pore size and congestion, it is not a hard and fast rule. This is because both pore size and congestion are the result of various factors.
Larger pores are usually associated with oilier skin, which have enlarged sebaceous glands (the ones that produce oil/sebum). Increased oil production increases the likelihood of stuff getting stuck in the pore, but doesn’t always mean that will happen. Congestion in the pore is a combination of oil and dead skin cells, as well as any makeup or debris that gets caught up in the mix.
Pore size is influenced by:
Genetics. This is the overwhelming driving factor behind your pore size. Sorry!
Loss of elasticity. As you age, collagen and elastin production declines, which is also exacerbated by sun damage. The loss of structural support means that pores become more easily stretched out and are unable to “snap” back.
Previous congestion. Even if the congestion itself is resolved, it could have caused pores to stretch out.
Congestion is influenced by:
Genetics! As always, genetics are the driving force because they influence both oil production and cell turnover.
Oil production. The amount of oil you produce itself—and how thick it is—is influenced by genetics, sebaceous gland activity, hormones, the environment, medications, skincare products & more.
Rate of skin shedding/cell turnover. Skin is constantly shedding old skin cells, which in an ideal world just get sloughed off the surface, but often wind up mixing with oil and getting stuck in the pore. Acne-prone skin is genetically predisposed to shed up to 5x more than normal skin, which means more skin cells are able to get stuck. (This is why I recommend mandelic acid over retinoids for clearing acne.)
Skincare products, conditions and behaviors. More on this below.
Keeping Pores Clear
Prevent dehydration. All skin needs a balance of water and oil. Any skin type can be dehydrated, which means it lacks water. When skin doesn’t have enough water, it tries to compensate by producing more oil, which is often thicker and stickier. Dehydrated skin is also unable to properly slough off dead skin cells, leading to build up. When skin is properly hydrated, oil production is regulated (meaning less oil that is also thinner) and skin cells naturally slough off.
Cleansing + exfoliating. Washing your face every day is crucial to remove excess oil, makeup, dirt and other stuff that can get trapped in the pore. If you’re doing a good job thoroughly cleansing, there’s less stuff that can get stuck. While our skin does naturally shed off dead skin cells, we help it out by exfoliating, which dissolves the bonds between dead skin, again eliminating a potential source of clogging.
So, if you have large pores, but are doing things to prevent build up within them, such as keeping your skin hydrated, cleansing thoroughly and regularly exfoliating, you could have large pores without congestion. (Or, if you don’t do these things and still don’t have congested large pores, you could just be genetically blessed in this regard.)
On the flip side, dry skin produces less oil and is usually associated with smaller pores. But, these pores can still get congested due to genetics, or because those with dry skin may not routinely do the behaviors that help to keep pores clear. For example, if you have dry skin that’s also dehydrated, your skin works overtime to produce as much oil as possible and that oil is extra thick and sticky. Whereas someone with oily skin may use a gel cleanser twice a day and tolerate more intense exfoliation, someone with dry skin may only cleanse once a day with a non-stripping creamy cleanser and do less frequent exfoliation.
(You can also have tiny pores that do just produce a decent amount of oil and very acne-prone skin, which is the fun camp that I fall into. “Fun” fact: Accutane works by physically shrinking the sebaceous glands, which is why it’s very effective at treating acne, but usually leads to a lifetime of dry skin.)
How to Treat & Products to Look For
Regardless of the presence of congestion, sun protection is paramount to anything else, so make sure you are diligent in your sunscreen use and at thoroughly removing it at the end of the day to prevent build up. In terms of pore size, sun damage breaks down collagen and elastin, stretching out pores. In general, make sure you are washing your face the correct way and keeping your skin's oil and water balanced. All of these behaviors improve your overall skin health and appearance.
For congestion: focus on clearing build up within the pore & regulating oil
Mandelic acid. Mandelic acid is my #1 recommendation for literally any type of congestion, from non-inflamed blackheads & whiteheads, to inflamed papules and pustules. It’s both oil and water soluble (able to exfoliate on the surface and within the pore), antibacterial and very gentle, due to the larger molecular size. It’s so gentle that many people can use it daily, consistently getting ahead of build up.
Salicylic acid (BHA). Salicylic acid is uniquely oil-soluble, which means it can really get in there and break down build up in the pore. However, it can be quite drying, so I usually recommend mandelic over it, or use a salicylic acid cleanser.
Clay masks. Clay masks can help to absorb excess oil and gunk from the pore. If you are also prone to inflamed acne, this benzoyl peroxide mask helps kill bacteria and has kaolin clay to absorb excess oil (warning: this mask is spicy. Start by leaving on for 2 minutes at a time and don’t use if you have sensitive skin).
For large pores without congestion: you’ve probably heard that you can’t change your pore size, which is largely true since it is genetic. While there’s only so much you can do topically, there are some products and treatments that can help minimize their appearance, especially overtime. Focus on increasing elasticity, preventing collagen degradation and regulating oil.
Retinoids. Stimulates collagen and elastin production, making the pore wall tighter and stronger. (See my retinoid recommendations)
Niacinamide. Helps to regulate oil production and reduce inflammation, resulting in smoother skin with less noticeable pores. (You can use a dedicated niacinamide serum, but I prefer using something that has it + more, like this or this. Niacinamide is included in so many products these days, so check what you’re using so you don’t overdo it on the ingredient.)
LED. Helps to stimulate collagen and elastin production, strengthen the barrier and reduce inflammation. (This mask is my top recommendation)
Microneedling. Treatment wise, microneedling is my top recommendation for anything related to pore size or texture, but some lasers and chemical peels can help as well.
Ice! This is just a quick fix, but cold causes your pores to contract temporarily. Splash your face with cold water or use an ice cube/cryo wand.
Three Other Things
Did you know that Urban Decay’s cult-favorite setting spray was actually a partnership with the indie brand Skindinavia? I didn’t, until news broke last week that the 15-year partnership had ended and Urban Decay released a reformulated version that sounds…worse? The original is still available through Skindinavia directly.
My thoughts on the Skims Face Wrap will remain in my group chats, but I got a kick out of this reel from Anthony Hopkins.
Skin adjacent recommendation: ASYSTEM’s Radical Relief Gel Roll-On. I’ve been a devotee since purchasing it two years ago, but I’m giving it a special shoutout today because it’s been saving me from some excruciating cramps and feels amazing in this heat. My grandma says it’s better than any pill she’s ever been prescribed for her back pain.
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xx,
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