Facials 201: Choosing the Right Type of Facial Studio
Today's Guest Post by Jessie Resnick
Hello! Who’s ready for another guest post?! If you need to catch up, we started off this series with Sam’s unsparing review of 21 skin-related treatments, followed by a deeply touching reflection by Isabelle on what it means to care for another person’s body. We’ve laughed, we’ve cried and we’re just getting started! This week we’ll be hearing from Jessie Resnick, a Hotline Skin community member and fellow esthetician, to walk us through the ever-expanding landscape of facial offerings. No matter your location or specific concerns, I think everyone with a face will find it very informative.
This morning, The Cut published an article that I think everyone should read called “Fighting for Beauty Behind Prison Walls.” It’s almost a supplement to Isabelle’s piece last week, presenting yet another disturbing and overlooked way that society disregards the importance of caring and appearance. It made me think about this quote Isabelle shared:
In her 2022 book Essential Labor: Mothering as Social Change, Angela Garbes argues that our economic system does not have the ability to properly value care work. In a capitalist system that values work in terms of production, efficiency, and profit, caregiving is comparatively inefficient. But, she argues, “If we were to think about work in terms of our humanity– making people feel dignified, valued, and whole– then caregiving is the most important work we can do with our time on earth.”
It was just published a few hours ago so I haven’t had time to fully digest or look into anything further, but I’m very curious to know more about these new laws and what, if anything, we can do (write some letters? make some calls? get some products sent over?) If you’re involved in this type of work, let me know.
Finally, as a reminder, there won’t be Office Hours this week or the next. We’ll resume once I’m back from my wedding. Speaking of which, submit some questions for future issues! Inspire my writing! Click the button!
Now everyone say hi to Jessie!!
Hi everyone! My name is Jessie, and I’m a licensed esthetician and product specialist who works at the Sofie Pavitt studio in Chinatown, NYC (Sofie and her studio specialize in acne) and for the Sofie Pavitt Face brand. I’ve loved skincare for as long as I can remember and have idolized my mom and her dedication to her routine and how she’s always sought out the latest information on how to keep her skin her best. I am fairly new to the industry professionally, and I am always interested in learning more about ingredients, new products and technologies to help challenge skin concerns.
Navigating the sheer number of facial treatment options available can be confusing for anyone, whether you've sought out facial treatments before or are doing so for the first time. About 2 years ago, Jolie wrote Facials 101 that walks you through what a facial generally is and what to expect during and after your appointment. It’s a helpful overview and reminders of etiquette, etc. even if you have had a facial or two in your time.
But before you choose your esthetician, you first need to choose what type of facial studio and facial treatment you’re looking for. In bigger cities, you'll have a slew to choose from, so knowing where to start and what to look for can help to narrow down your search. Even in smaller cities, with only a few or even one option, it's still helpful to know how to choose to best meet your expectations.
Here are the different categories, kinds of treatments and results you can expect.
Lymphatic Drainage / Massage
These services emphasize muscle work, like lifting and stimulation, draining the lymph in the face and neck to reduce puffiness by using massage techniques and technologies like microcurrent, electric muscle stimulation. Your service may also include treating topical skin concerns (i.e. blemishes, pigmentation, etc.) through extractions, devices to kill bacteria and topical masks to combat pigmentation. This type of service will feel amazing, think a deep-tissue massage for your face. Many of them are intra-oral, meaning they’ll use their gloved hands inside your mouth to stretch and decompress the muscles around the face, and you’ll leave with a tighter and more firm-feeling face. The results are typically temporary, but with regular treatments it can reduce puffiness and keep muscles engaged for a more lifted appearance. This type of service is great for before a big event or on a regular basis to keep your muscles stimulated and engaged. If you have any inflamed acne or open wounds, best to avoid this service until healed and if you’ve got injections, generally you’re fine about two weeks after, but always consult your provider if you're not sure.
Example studios and what you may see on a menu: Face Gym, Buccal Massage, Microcurrent, lymphatic drainage
Spa-like
These services are usually relaxation-focused with heated pools, baths, massages, etc. that are available for you to use in addition to the facial treatment you are receiving. Because the average client here is transient and the esthetician won’t be working with the client’s skin regularly, these treatments focus more on relaxation and hydration rather than tackling more nuanced skin conditions, like pigmentation, acne, texture, etc.
Example studios and what you may see on a menu: Bath houses, hotel spas, retreats, etc.
Acne Focused
If you’re suffering from acne, no matter what age, you’ll want to look for a studio with estheticians who are knowledgeable about and specifically trained in treating acne and acne-related skin concerns (rosacea, redness, etc. + post-care for acne scarring and PIE). Depending on where you live, these studios may only specialize in acne specific programs or have other offerings, in addition to certified acne specialists. You’ll get the most bang for your buck by planning to spend at least 12 weeks dedicated to the routine and plan that your esthetician gives you, and going in with an open mind to get to the root cause of your acne condition. The atmosphere in these locations are usually on the more clinical side (less bells and whistles).
Example studios and what you may see on a menu: Sofie Pavitt (where I work!), Acne Clinic, Acne Institute, Face Reality Certified Acne specialist across the US
Niche/Boutique
These studios offer an array of treatments, using advanced technologies and state-of-the-art methods to treat skin concerns across the spectrum, such as texture, pigmentation, mature skin, firming, lifting, etc. They may also offer facial massage treatments or other specialities listed above. Many treatments will require multiple sessions to achieve the desired result, and some will have strict before and after protocols that should be read thoroughly and followed.These studios are often where client's will develop long-term relationships with their estheticians, helping to craft routines and returning on a semi-regular basis. Remember that everyone’s skin responds differently so your provider should walk you through reasonable expectations based on the current state of your skin and lifestyle.
Example studios and what you may see on a menu: Practise (where Jolie works!), Rescue Spa, Oxygen therapy, Cryotherapy, Peels, Madalaina Conti’s Qi treatments, gentle lasers
Membership
These studios are great for those looking for maintenance at a reasonable price without the bells and whistles i.e. you’ll typically be in a semi-private space and won’t change into a robe. Services offered are limited, but great for those who want some advice on how to age gracefully, mitigate potential skin concerns and learn more about ingredients and products. You can see the same esthetician to ensure your progress is monitored, and you’ll be charged for monthly treatments (the membership part, although most offer non-member pricing and a la carte options!).
Example studios and what you may see on a menu: Glowbar, Heyday, Silver Mirror Facial Bar
MedSpas
This is where you’ll go to get injectables/fillers and advanced skin treatments that go past the first layer of skin (epidermis) and require a medical professional such as a NP, PA or Dermatologist. It’s also common to see licensed estheticians offering certain services such as laser and some needle-based treatments, depending on the certification/education requirements that vary by state. Menus will include radio-frequency microneedling, light technology (deep lasers), and sometimes plastic surgery procedures. A good provider will walk you through your options based on what outcomes you’re looking for, and be willing to answer as many questions as you have. And make sure to pay attention to their face - if they don’t appear as you’d like your own face, it might be worth looking into another injector.
Example studios and what you may see on a menu: Derm offices, Contōr Studio, GoodSkin Clinic, Ever/Body (where Jolie gets underarm Botox)
Once you decide what type of studio fits the needs of your skin, check out Jolie’s article on How to Find an Esthetician for literally step-by-step tips on what to look out for during your search for an esthetician and what to think about during an intro session to verify you're making the right decision for you. Even if you have a network to ask or a referral from a friend, it's always worth gut checking with yourself to verify you're making the right decision for your skin goals!
Treatments, technologies and formulas in the beauty world are always changing as new information is learned, so don’t be shy to speak up if something doesn't make sense or doesn’t seem quite right. As Jolie mentioned in her article linked above, providers love questions and love when clients are open with their goals and lifestyles so we can help you get your best skin.
If you have any questions drop them in the comments! To book a facial with me, Jessie, at the Sofie Pavitt studio in Chinatown, NYC click here.
Thank you, Jessie! Light up the comments, people!
Have a great week!
xx,
Jolie
P.S. CO2 Masks are in! Email me asap to get yours before I’m out again. More info at the end of this issue.
i want to start getting regular facials and want to build a relationship w my aesthetician but also want to start using lasers. should i book at both a medspa and a boutique type of place?
I’ve always opted for massages instead of facials when I’m at a spa because I am hesitant about doing random exfoliating treatments, so it’s great to hear they likely limit actives in favor of hydration and relaxation!!