Talking New Tech & Questioning a Derm Rec

trying something new today

Sep 26, 2024

Hi friends!

Hope you’re having a great week. Psyched that you’re all as enthusiastic about wedding content as I am. Check out part 1 of my recap from last week. I’m still working hard on the rest (plus pictures just came back yesterday!!!) and appreciate your patience/again promise to try my best to make this fun and not annoying.

Stress Pimples and Snatched Jawlines

Sep 19

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Yesterday I sent out an email announcing Office Hours with a twist, inviting everyone to ask their questions in chat. Normally Office Hours are a weekly perk for paying subscribers and I (almost always) answer every question. Part of the beauty of Office Hours is that it doesn’t take nearly as much planning as I put into each issue. I try to treat it like I would if I was seeing a client in person, a bit more casual and off-the-cuff, but of course still as informative as possible, giving my best answer without doing tons of outside research.

I’ve been toying with the idea of doing something regularly where I pick 1 or 2 Office Hours questions to answer slightly more in-depth in an issue, but still challenging myself to a quick turnaround time. So today’s issue is a trial run of sorts. I selected a few to answer and gave myself a time limit to write and publish. Excuse any typos. If I picked your question, please email hi@joldef.com and as promised, I’ll send you some skincare goodies. Let me know in the comments what you think about this idea for the future. In the meantime, if you want to get in on the Office Hours action every week, you know what to do:

I started rx Arazlo a few nights a week a couple of months ago and really cut back on all other bells and whistles (only using CeraVe cleanser and moisturizer, and SPF in the AM). Really happy with the results but my skin is still trending red and sensitized, especially as the weather changes. If I want to add one hero ingredient/product in the AM, what's your recommendation? (I love my derm but her rec of $180+ on Skinceuticals CE Ferulic is not in the budget at the moment.)

No offense to your derm, I’m sure she is great, but I’m happy to hear you didn’t go with that recommendation because in all honesty, it does not make a lot of sense to me! For anyone unfamiliar, Arazlo (Tazarotene) is a prescription retinoid, considered even more potent than Tretinoin. Aka it’s strong, effective for treating acne and age-related concerns, but comes with a high risk of irritation and takes a bit to adjust to. Good on you for cutting back on other things while you acclimate––that was the right move, and further confirmed by the fact that you’re already seeing results! Also good on you for wanting to add something in as the weather gets colder.

Even if you weren’t feeling red and sensitized, my recommendation for one hero product to add would be a hydrating, barrier supporting serum. Everyone needs one, but especially for counteracting some of the negative side effects of a strong retinoid. You want something that is going to help to hydrate, repair and strengthen. Something that is going to help reduce inflammation and calm the skin down. Vitamin C is a lot of things but it is not that. Among other things, it’s primarily a potent antioxidant, which helps to protect your skin against environmental stress, like UV and pollution. You can find antioxidants in many other products, like the ones I am going to recommend. Even if I was going to recommend a vitamin C serum for your concerns, Skinceuticals is not the one I’d suggest. Yes, it’s one of the most popular vitamin C serums ever and many people swear by it, but it is no longer the best of its class and hasn’t been for a while. Furthermore, that specific vitamin C has the potential to be fairly irritating, due to its low pH. A questionable recommendation all around!

My top recommendation would be Sachi Skin’s Pro Resilience Serum. It’s pricey, but still much more affordable than Skinceuticals (plus I have a discount code below). I don’t know how many of these bottles I’ve gone through, but it’s well into the double digits. It’s lightweight, incredibly healing and as the name implies, pro resilience! For a more affordable option, my second choice would be the Experiment Super Saturated serum. It’s a thick blue goo composed of 30% glycerin and other skin soothers and will make your skin so glowy and hydrated. If it’s too sticky for you, mix into your moisturizer.

What are your thoughts on growth factors for your early 30s? They are so expensive!!

My thoughts are grrreeeeatttt!!!!!!! Yes, they are expensive, but they’re one of those areas in skincare where you get what you pay for. I am in my early 30s and in addition to SPF and LED, credit Bioeffect for a lot of my skin’s appearance, particularly the eye area. Their eye serum is the one I talk about constantly, I use it twice a day, it lifts crepey lids, smooths fine lines and is my recommended gateway growth factor product. Of course, the older your skin is, the more pronounced the difference you will see, but right now, in our early 30s, prevention is the name of the game. Growth factors naturally occur in our skin, but like all good things, the production declines when we hit 25. A good growth factor serum helps to replenish and stimulate, helping things like collagen and elastin synthesis, hydration, wound healing and more. My favorite way I’ve heard them described is bringing a consultancy into your skin, making it function optimally and more efficiently. If you already have your basics (cleanser, moisturizer, sunscreen) and are looking to level up your anti-aging skincare, they are a great choice to add. I wouldn’t pick them over a retinoid, but they are a perfect supplement to retinoids and have zero contraindications. Everyone can use them and with everything. If you want a full-face serum, try the Bioeffect Power Serum. My other favorites are the aforementioned eye serum and essence. Discount code below.

OK I asked in IG stories, but I'm hoping you'll have the new one in hand by the time you post. SOOOO, with that in mind, what are your thoughts on the new CurrentBody LED mask vs. the original? Would love a comparison of the tech in your opinion as well as the user experience.

It is supposed to arrive by 7pm tonight so I will give an update after I get to use it this weekend! But early reports from friends are all very positive. Experience wise, I am so excited about the improved fit, chin strap and ability to clip the charger, making it even easier to move around. Tech wise, it seems superior. It has an additional wave-length that targets even deeper wrinkles and more lights in general. Idk unless it breaks easily, I think CurrentBody kind of knocked it out of the park mask wise here. The original Series 1 is still an absolutely fantastic mask and there are zero downsides to it. But for $89 more, if you don’t have an LED mask, I’d get the Series 2. I also have a discount code below. It’s interesting to me that they are selling both, I wonder if they will eventually discontinue the Series 1.

Photo: Screenshot from CurrentBody website.

Do you have any products that you would recommend for post laser skincare?

There are so many different lasers, each with their own downtime and protocols, so listen to your doctor about when it’s ok to use skincare and anything to avoid. But generally, anything hydrating/moisturizing/repairing should be okay. Keep it simple, slather that sunscreen and get yourself a wide brim hat.

The CO2 Lift Mask was born for this!!!! I am linking a previous post here where I talk more about it. Do a series and amplify your healing and results. (Ordering info in linked posts or below.)

Ice in general, but post-procedure calls for some Nice Ice. Personally, I like to Nice Ice and then put the CO2 mask on.

A thick, balmy moisturizer, like this one from Tower28 is also really nice. Look for words like barrier cream. I like the Tower28 cause it’s also completely acne-safe.

Finally, Both growth factors and LED are incredible options, as they promote healing and rejuvenation. Some dermatologists even have their patients sit under LED post-treatment. The ones linked above are my favorite, but you can also get the Bioeffect Power Cream which will perform double duty as a thick moisturizer and growth factor product.

I've developed rosacea in my 40s and it looks like I can't use glycolic anymore. What's your favorite alternative exfoliant (or adjacent category) for aging skin?

Mandelic acid or azelaic acid! I’d go with azelaic if your skin presents as more ruddy/rough. But if tolerated, you can certainly use one in AM and one in PM.

Submit a Question

Office Hours Reminder

Join us for Office Hours on Sunday! This exclusive weekly opportunity is available to paying subscribers.

Every Sunday at 5pm EST, I’ll begin a new thread for the week in Substack Chat, where you can ask me anything. Every Monday from 5-6pm EST, I’ll be in that chat live, answering questions for the hour. That way, if you can’t make it, you can submit any time after 5pm Sunday and still get an answer. If you can make it live, join in! You can ask questions in real time and (hopefully) interact with others in class ;)

Discount Codes

CurrentBody: JOLIECB for 10% off
Dermstore: JOLIE for 15% off (they sell Bioeffect here!)
Experiment: JOLIE10 for 10% off
Naturium: JOLDEF15 for 15% off
Sachi Skin: JOLIE15 for 15% off
Sofie Pavitt Face: JOLIE10 for 10% off
CO2 Lift: Email hi@joldef.com They’re $100/each and I can give you a little discount on 3+.