Solving Skin Mysteries & Seeking Good Sleep

answering a hodgepodge of your questions today (ft. 2 pillow recs)

Hello! Been a heavy week, huh? If you made a wish under the aurora last night for a Friday edition of Hotline Skin, I’m delighted to let you know your wish has been granted. 

At the end of last month, I was featured in Katie Stone’s newsletter, talking about the skin barrier. A good refresher as the weather gets colder, which will come up again in one of today’s questions. 

My dear friend Roya was interviewed a few weeks ago in a newsletter written by my new friend (thanks, Roya!) Priyanka. As Priyanka so eloquently explains, Roya is one-of-one. A connector of people and a champion of the things and people she loves. When Roya likes something, people listen, which is why I was so beyond excited to read that Roya not only mentioned Sachi Skin, but that Priyanka was already a fan.

Screenshot from Shit I Bought and Liked

Most of you have probably heard me rave about Sachi for years, either online or in-person. The brand is known for blending ancient Ayurvedic medicine with new science & ingredient technologies to create wholly unique formulations. I’ve been lucky enough to get to know the founder, Farah, and her slow and intentional approach to formulating. For a while the brand only had 3 products. They’re now up to 6. Each one is special and currently 20% off during their annual Fall Sale, which is the best deal you’ll find. It’s hard to pick favorites, but if I had to pick 2:

Pro-Resilience Serum: my most used, my most talked about. I don’t know how many bottles I’ve gone through, but it’s a lot. It’s a water-thin serum to help strengthen, plump and soothe, featuring a blend of hydrators, peptides and their proprietary 10.5% Ayurvedic Bioflavonoid Repair Complex (antioxidants & skin soothers to reduce inflammation, irritation and promote healthier skin). It’s a serum that all skin can benefit all, but especially if you own an LED device. Farah intentionally formulated it to be able to be used under LED to allow for deeper penetration of the ingredients and enhanced results. 

Complexion Clarifying Accelerator (CCA): the product that made me fall in love with the brand. It’s a spiiiicy exfoliator that helps with breakouts, hyperpigmentation, pores, texture & fine lines. It’s housed in a manuka honey gel base, so you use it towards the end of your routine, unlike traditional exfoliants. I particularly rec for blemish prone, congested oily/combo skin. 

Today’s ask: Please take 2 minutes and tell me about the best beauty-related gift you’ve ever received. 

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I couldn’t help myself and wanted to answer all of the questions from open Office Hours the other week.

Photo: Zeen

What would you recommend for hormonal acne around that time of the month? Like clockwork every cycle I get cystic acne on my chin and it leaves PIH that takes forever to go away!

Just like with any type of acne, the key to success is to be proactive in preventing the acne from forming rather than to treat it once it happens (of course that can be helpful too, but it’s more like playing whack-a-mole and not a long term solution). The luteal phase, right before the menstrual phase when you actually get your period, tends to be the worst time for breakouts. During this phase, progesterone levels rise, increasing oil production and contributing to nasty breakouts. This is when you want to act and use products that reduce excess oil and prevent dead skin from accumulating in the pore. Sofie Pavitt’s Acne Reset Mask was made for this moment! Use it once or twice for ~10 mins in the week or so leading up to your period–since everyone’s cycle is different, it’ll be a bit of a dance to figure out the perfect timing for your skin, but 7-10 days is a good place to start. That mask is also great as a spot treatment for any pesky breakouts that won’t go away. If your skin is sensitive to benzoyl peroxide, something with salicylic acid is a good choice. 

What do you think are the most bang-for-your-buck facial treatments (lasers, etc) for women in their 40s who are already set up with a great skincare routine?

Microneedling!!!! 1-4 times a year, depending on the state of your skin (and budget, of course). Microneedling uses tiny, sterile needles to intentionally injure your skin and stimulate your skin’s wound healing process (aka to produce collagen). You’re basically tricking your skin into thinking it’s been injured and boy is that a good trick! A trick and a treat, if you will 🎃 Microneedling is also known as collagen induction therapy or CIT. It can help to smooth fine lines & wrinkles, improve texture and tone from scarring and discoloration, reduce the appearance of pores and generally tighten & firm.

What is a realistic routine for a soon to be bride that doesn’t want to spend +$500 on regular treatments/products? What are products/tools I can start incorporating in my daily routine and if I were to spend on a treatment what would be the most cost effective?

So I know this isn’t really the answer you’re looking for, but it would be an excellent use of your time and money to schedule a consultation with an esthetician, virtually or in-person. You’ll save money in the long run by having tailored recommendations, I promise. It’s impossible to give a realistic routine without knowing more about your skin, lifestyle, when your wedding is, what your budget is etc. (Ex: is it $500 total or $500 on products, per treatment? Do you have 1 month or 6 months? Do you have active acne or other major concerns or just want to pamper yourself? etc etc.) In addition to helping you establish the best routine and products to use, a consultation will also be the best place to get recommendations for treatments, which can’t really be done without assessing your skin and knowing what timeframe you’re working with.

I have limited openings for virtual consultations, but feel free to email me and I’ll see if we can work something out, otherwise I can help you find someone. 

What are your top 5 pre wedding splurges you recommend for the year leading up to the big day?

• Forming a relationship with an esthetician = priceless 

  • Determine the correct cadence for facials w esthetician, likely every 4-6 weeks. Maybe every 6-8 weeks for the first half of the year, then closer together in the months leading up. Also depends on if you are doing a series…

• A treatment (or series) your esthetician recommends (a peel, microneedling etc.)

• CurrentBody LED Mask used 3-5x a week at home

  • If you’re going to only get 1 device, get this LED. If you can get 2, then add the ZIIP

• ZIIP used 3-5x a week at home 

  • you can alternate days with LED or do LED first in the same routine. See more here and here

• CO2 Lift Mask Series 

  • at least 3, but since you’re splurging and have a year, you can do more than 1 series. If you purchase from me I can help you determine timeline. 

Bonus if this applies to you: underarm Botox remains the most life changing treatment I’ve ever paid and continue to pay full-price for.

Bonus not really a splurge but still a luxury: do whatever you need to do to prioritize sleep. A good night’s sleep makes a *tremendous* difference in your skin. And sleeping is hard in general but especially when planning a wedding so it’s worth calling it out. Your skin will look better, you will feel physically and mentally better. I set a nightly alarm on my phone to remind me it’s time to go to bed. I deeply regret not getting these pillows earlier. I do not regret paying full price for a Sleep Crown. Buy new pajamas, get sheets that make you feel like you’re in a hotel, whatever it is you need to do.

What are the things you audit when your skin starts acting up? It seems like suddenly (maybe because fall) I'm breaking out way more and my skin feels tight - with my products not really changing.

Love this question! I have an idea about your specific concerns––the breakouts and the tightness––but let’s first review things I’d audit in general. 

• Environmental changes (ex: temp, humidity, pollution, UV exposure)

• Stress level (physical, mental, emotional)

• Sleep hygiene (very related to stress)

• Eating (also very related to stress. What have you been eating more of, but also what can you add to your diet? Have you been eating more sugar/processed foods? At regular intervals? Late night snacking? Can you try adding in more leafy greens, berries, carrots, legumes etc.)

• New laundry detergent? New toothpaste? New hand soap?

• Have you cleaned your makeup brushes recently? 

• When was the last time you changed your pillowcase? 

• What’s the climate like in your office? Do they keep the AC running year-round?

• Are you working out/sweating more? 

• Did you get a pet? Does the pet sleep on your pillow while you’re at work?

• Any new medications?

In your case, I think you’re right that the change of season is a likely culprit. I’ve written about this in previous newsletters (here and here), but one of my favorite pieces of advice for cold weather skincare is to think about what else we change when the temperature drops – we layer our clothes, seek out cozy spots, and eat heavy, nourishing soups. Whenever our environment changes so does our behavior and so does our skin. In the summer, increased humidity helps moisture stay in our skin, but as the air gets drier and the temperature falls, our skin is more susceptible to water loss, our barrier becomes more easily compromised and our skin gets tight, dry, flaky and itchy. Your skin is likely dehydrated (contributing to that tight feeling and exacerbating breakouts by holding onto dead skin cells and impacting oil production) and your skin barrier in need of a little TLC (necessary to trap water in your skin and make it less vulnerable to inflammation and irritants that can also contribute to breakouts). The serum I mentioned at the beginning is a great solution, or try adding a few layers of essence for lightweight layers, using a less-stripping or creamier cleanser and/or opting for a heavier moisturizer to seal in your hydrating essences/serums. It’s also a good time to get a humidifier.

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Office Hours Reminder

Join us for Office Hours on Sunday! This exclusive weekly opportunity is available to paying subscribers.

Every Sunday at 5pm EST, I’ll begin a new thread for the week in Substack Chat, where you can ask me anything. Every Monday from 5-6pm EST, I’ll be in that chat live, answering questions for the hour. That way, if you can’t make it, you can submit any time after 5pm Sunday and still get an answer. If you can make it live, join in! You can ask questions in real time and (hopefully) interact with others in class ;)

Discount Codes

• Carepod Humidifier: JOLDEF for 10% off

• CurrentBody: JOLIECB for 10% off

• Dermstore: JOLIE for 15% off (they sell Bioeffect here!)

• Sachi Skin: JOLIE15 for 15% off (but the sale through 10/17 is better)

• Sofie Pavitt Face: JOLIE10 for 10% off

• ZIIP: ZIIPJOLIE for 10% off

• CO2 Lift: Email hi@joldef.com They’re $100/each and I can give you a little discount on 3+.

you can find all of my discount codes here

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Have a great week!

xx,

Jolie