Self Tanner
SPEED DIAL #43
Once a month, I unlock a post from this paid subscriber-only series for everyone to read for a limited time—and today’s the day! Here’s what else paid subs got this month: Bakuchiol, Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation vs. Post-Inflammatory Erythema, Salicylic Acid (BHA)
Speed Dial is a weekly series of quick tips, simple breakdowns and key concepts you can grasp over breakfast. Learn something new about skincare in as little as 100 and no more than 400 words.
I broke my own rule on this one because I couldn’t get under 400 words, but wanted to keep it like a Speed Dial cheat sheet you can reference.
HOW IT WORKS: The key ingredient is dihydroxyacetone (DHA), a sugar molecule derived from sugar cane or beets. DHA reacts with amino acids in your dead skin cells, creating brown pigments called melanoidins. Essentially, DHA is tinting just the top layer of skin. The chemical reaction that occurs is called a Maillard reaction, which you might recognize from cooking, as it’s the same reaction that browns meat and toasts bread.
TYPES: please leave your own specific recs in the comments!
Mousse: fastest drying, buildable light/medium/deep options, highest DHA concentration, most popular for the body. Clear or color guide options (helpful to see where you apply, but can develop deeper than clear). Leave-on or rinse, depending on the formula or desired color.
Salty Face Tanning Foam* is clear, but the one I’ve had the most success with in terms of color and evenness as I continue to hold the record for World’s Palest Sicilian. I rinse after an hour if I just want to not be able to see all of my veins, but leave it overnight for a more noticeable tan.
Loving Tan or Luna Bronze for color guide/express options.
Gradual lotion: apply like any other lotion, tan very gradually develops over the course of a few uses.
Jergens Natural Glow is the classic here, but the Wet Skin version is neat too.
Drops: mix into moisturizer, can customize depth of color, but requires some trial & error to get the right ratio.
Drops aren’t for me, but Tan-Luxe is most popular among my clients
Water/mist: light, usually less concentrated than drops, quick drying, tends to be even color distribution and popular for face.
Salty Face Tanning Water* is what the brand is most known for and category leader imo. Couldn’t be easier, acne-safe.
*use JOLIE10 for 10% off at Salty Face
BEFORE: the #1 biggest determining factor in results. These steps are more specific to body self-tanner, but same principles apply for face.
Shave (or wax) and exfoliate. Best to do 24-48 hours before. Removes dead skin to create a smooth, soft surface for even tan application. Particularly focus on rough/flake-prone areas where dead skin accumulates (ex: knees, elbows) and can grab onto product.
Exfoliating mitt in shower, LILIS Resurfacing Body Peel* for pre-shower or Fur Silk Scrub* in shower post-shaving
Hydrate your skin!!! Use light, water-based lotions/body serums. Anything oil-heavy will strip the tan/make it uneven. I apply lotion all over after my exfoliating/shaving shower, then again next day before tanner only to naturally drier spots, like elbows, knees, ankles, wrists, tops of feet.
LILIS Firming Serum*, Abi Ame Summer Skin or Hanni Water Balm (all also great post-tan)
*use JOLDEF15 for 15% off at LILIS and JOLIE15 for 15% off at Fur
APPLICATION: general best practices, but practice really makes perfect, so use these tips to figure out the best technique for you.
Apply lotion/serum to dry spots as explained above.
Use a tanning mitt. For your back, enlist help, try this or try my hack: do back before arms, using one hand to press the other down to extend the reach of your mitt. (Like an overhead tricep stretch)
Work in sections using circular motions, from outer edges towards middle (ex: go up the legs to your butt, from shoulders down your arm).
Be sparing around joints, wrists and ankles. After applying, use a dry cloth or makeup brush to buff ankles/wrists and apply tanner to hands/feet (or use excess on mitt).
Dry fully before getting dressed (10-15 mins) if not rinsing.
AFTER:
Avoid water (unless rinsing off as instructed), sweat and tight clothing for 6-8 hours. Wear dark, loose clothing to bed.
Hydrate your skin daily to keep it looking fresh! You can use any lotion, but remember oils will strip the color faster. See my recs above.
Allow the color to fully develop for 24-48 hours before applying more or filling in patchy areas.
Retinoids, AHAs, BHAs all accelerate cell turnover and slough of dead skin cells…aka the opposite of what you want! Hold off on these the night before and the day after to preserve your tan.
Self tanner is purely cosmetic and does not in any way increase your sun protection, so don’t change your sunscreen habits!