Cleansers Are Trending
what's driving it & what's standing out
Hello hello!
I’m so glad you all enjoyed last week’s issue about the new era of cleansers, featuring part 1 of my interview with Spate’s Addison Cain.
Today, I’m excited to share more of our interview, answers from formulators and brand owners, and all of the recommendations!!! Most of which are or will very likely be on sale this weekend. Speaking of…
If I have any discount codes for things I mention, I always list them at the bottom. The sales this weekend are/will probably be better deals than my codes and I’ve noted those too! These tend to be the best sales until the holidays.
Last week, I asked Addison if she thought that this surge of new cleansers was being driven by the brand side or the consumer side:
I feel like I see a lot of new cleansers from emerging brands, and I *think* it has to do with trying to own more consumer routine real estate with a product that has higher usage rates, like a cleanser you use 1-2x daily. This is a brainstorm, but more interaction = more familiarity with the brand and then hopefully more loyalty.
I would love for a chemist/product dev/product manager to weigh in here. Are cleansers easier to formulate? What are the incentives beyond pure profit that brands have for launching new cleansers?
To answer these questions, I reached out to Lisa Guerrera, the co-founder of Experiment Beauty (and inventor of our beloved blue goo). In my opinion, Experiment is a brand at the forefront of innovation–each of their 4 products are wholly unique from their formulas to their usage. You can thank them for bringing reusable masks to the masses and introducing people to the joy of glycerin. Here’s what Lisa had to say:
JOLIE: With so many new cleansers from emerging brands, a hypothesis is that brands are trying to own more consumer real estate with a product that has higher usage rates–could this be true?
LISA: In short, yes. When we create products we're thinking about not only the total addressable market of a product (i.e. how niche is the appeal/issue this product addresses) but also the replenishment rate of that product– how fast/how many times are consumers likely to repurchase. Cleansers are one of the few products that check both those boxes. Also worth noting that even though cleansers are considered a "skincare" product, it's not uncommon to see makeup brands or other personal care brands launch a cleanser since it's still relevant to their products.
What are incentives beyond pure profit that brands have for launching new cleansers? Are cleansers easier to formulate compared to other skincare products?
In my opinion, cleanser is a category you can have fun in. It's a very universal product and it's a product that usually requires less education around usage than other products like a retinol serum, for example. That marketing energy then gets put towards the "vibe" of the product: how it smells, how it lathers, the color, the story, the creative, etc. But the reality is most incentives are profit driven: a highly replenishable, universally appealing product, easy to make a good cleanser with a lower materials cost with less marketing energy spent on education, and it has a super high addressable market.
If you want to formulate a stand out skincare product in a crowded category like cleansers, I would never say that's easy. But if you want to make a fairly standard decent gel cleanser? yeah that's pretty easy and is simpler than other kinds of products!
Is this surge at all driven by new ingredients/the formulator side or are they just doing what they’re told?
Most brands outsource product formulation to an R&D Lab and the brand (usually the product development and/or marketing team) is giving them (the lab) a brief of what they want, usually based on market trends. So yes, while facial cleansers have gotten better over the years with gentler surfactants and lower foam cleansers with an emphasis on clean but not stripped, I would guess this boom is really coming from the brand and marketing side.
Thanks, Lisa!
Interestingly, when I asked Addison if she had any final thoughts about the topic of cleansers, she also brought up the education aspect:
There’s plenty of improvement to be made in terms of educating consumers on how to get the most out of their treatment-focused cleansers. Benzoyl peroxide cleansers are my favorite use case for this and the practice known as “short contact therapy.”
We should also discuss where cleansers can have an impact and where they won’t. Even if you’re trying to save money, you might be better off spending it on a reliable serum than a face wash, for example. This is a case-by-case discussion. Cleansers can be amazing for some concerns!
Short contact therapy is a way to use actives with less chance of irritation, by only leaving them on the skin for a short period of time. This technique is particularly effective for cleansers, which are formulated to deposit ingredients quickly onto the skin. Addison swears by the CeraVe 4% Acne Foaming Cream Cleanser, which she lets sit for 2-5 minutes before rinsing off. This is a favorite cleanser (and technique) of mine as well.
I think that the ideas around education that both Addison and Lisa presented can help us make sense of this new wave of cleansers: cleansers typically require less education, making them an easy entry point for consumers. A simple one is fairly easy to make relative to other skincare products. So how do you make a cleanser stand out? How can you deviate from a typical cleanser without overcomplicating it? I think it’s by enhancing the cleansing experience. Whether that means making it more of a treatment, a sensorial, spa or solving a classic cleansing pain-point, these new cleansers aren't reinventing the wheel, but they are improving it with formulas, textures and ways to use. Below are the ones I think are doing it best.
Sachi Skin Saponins Cream Cleanser & Saffron Luminous Cleanser: Prior to the release of these cleansers, Sachi Skin sold only 4 products: 2 serums and 2 overnight treatments. Considering what we discussed, this is pretty atypical for brands, which often launch with a cleanser or moisturizer, products with more familiarity. But the beauty of Sachi, and why I love the brand so much, is their commitment to innovative, multitasking and intentional formulations. I would never expect them to release a product that I might be able to find elsewhere, so it’s not surprising that their cleansers are unlike anything I’ve ever tried and that they took years to develop. Though both are stellar, I haven’t shut up about the cream cleanser, which uses a cleansing agent called saponins that feels almost like a velvet-y clay. If that doesn’t make sense it’s because you’ve never felt anything like it. You can use on wet or dry skin and even leave on for a few minutes like a mask. I asked Farah, the founder and formulator, a bit about her inspiration for finally releasing cleansers. She explained that cleansers set the stage for other actives to work effectively, and Sachi’s specifically work to improve the efficacy of their other products by ensuring the ingredients get optimally delivered into the skin.
Dr. Idriss Soft Wash Jelly Cleanser: This is the cleanser I wanted to talk about that inspired this whole series. It’s just such a fun take on a jelly cleanser and was created to solve an obvious, but very overlooked problem: the ability to open your eyes while cleansing so you can see if you’ve removed everything. Dr. Shereene Idriss (a mascara lover) wanted this ability in a cleanser, so she created it, formulating it with poloxamer, an ingredient commonly found in contact solution. Addison also said this is the cleanser she’s most excited to try next.
Sofie Pavitt Face Clean Clean Cleanser: just a solid, reliable, simple gel cleanser that lathers generously and cleanses without stripping. For those of you that crave that satisfying foaming action but still have respect for your skin barrier. (I haven’t tried these yet, but Sofie’s newest launch is another twist on a classic cleanser: Micellar Cleansing Pads.)
The Ordinary Glucosides Foaming Cleanser: I’ve talked about this one before, as it’s the easiest cleanser to rinse off that I’ve ever used. It has a gel-like consistency that’s like a ghost of a substance. It foams and then it disappears. It’s really something. It’s a great choice for people who hate the experience of cleansing or have no time, but wouldn’t be my recommendation if you like your cleansing to feel like ~a ritual~
By the way, glucosides are mild surfactants derived from plants. Are you noticing a theme among the cleansers here? I am. Experience upgrades & innovative cleansing agents (aka surfactants the ingredients involved in the action of actually lifting things off the surface during cleansing).
Bioeffect Facial Cleanser: I don’t hide my love of this brand, and I wish I didn’t love their $70 cleanser as much as I do but…it’s so good. Biphase formulas are popular in cleansers (like gel-to-oil, ala this) but the Icelandic scientists over at Bioeffect created a delectable gel-to-milk that transforms into a silky cream. It would work really well for pretty much every skin type, particularly dry, acne prone. It contains Barley Seed Extract, a redness-reducing antioxidant that they upcycle from the barley plants that source the brand’s truly outstanding epidermal growth factors (alert: get this on sale).
Prequel Gleanser Non-Drying Glycerin Cleanser: How many times can I say you’ve never felt anything like this before you stop believing me? Hopefully at least once more, because Prequel’s oft-sold out Gleanser is formulated with a whopping 50% glycerin which doesn’t feel like or sound like it should cleanse as well as it does. Excellent for sensitive or reactive skin, especially eczema and rosacea but anyone can find a way to enjoy it because it can be used as a face, body or my favorite, hand wash. My love for Gleanser was mentioned on this podcast interview with the founder (~20 mins in). For when you need to wash your hands but still want to show them respect. It’s also $18 for 13.5oz.
Naturium The Energizer Mandelic Acid Body Wash: The entire category of Naturium’s body wash could earn a place on this list, but their newest launch is very close to unseating my long-term favorite. It cools on contact and helps to neutralize body odor thanks to sugarcane, whose fermentation process yields four types of odor-fighting enzymes. Plus, who doesn’t love antibacterial & brightening mandelic acid?! It feels so good, this is going to be so refreshing in the summer. Like all of their body washes, it’s an unbelievable value at $16 for 16.9oz.
One of the reasons Naturium has knocked it out of the park body wash wise, is how targeted each one is. They take “treatment cleanser” to a whole new level. On the one hand, it might be a little overwhelming to choose because so many sound appealing, it also introduces a helpful way to think about caring for your body by having explicit options for so many body concerns and skin types. The price point allows people to build a cleansing wardrobe, having a few options on hand for different purposes. Addison’s a fan of the Naturium The Smoother Glycolic Acid Body Wash.
I predict hair is next for them!
Here are a few other cleansers Addison has been loving recently (and always). I’ve been hearing rave things about the new Soft Services buffing bar and I can’t get enough of the branding, but I just am not a bar soap person! And I’d never heard of Lilis, but now not only have I heard of it, it’s living in my brain 🤤
Garden of Wisdom Super Sensitive Cleansing Oil - my HG oil cleanser; and also very affordable. This brand is also a raw ingredient supplier and they have a ton of variations of oil cleansers based on your needs.
Soft Services Green Banana Buffing Bar - the scent is a really smart play on gourmand and tropical scents that feels fresh and not overdone.
My friend Helen has recently launched her brand Lilis and they have this lovely Instant Peel product that gently exfoliates and has a really unique texture that I’ve fallen in love with.
Not new, but I have to plug my favorite Aveeno Oat Gel Cleanser; I really love this and the bulk bag of it that you can buy on Amazon lol
Thank you so much, Addison!!!! Follow her on Instagram.
Referrals
Reminder: I launched referrals! This is a recent Substack feature with a lot of potential for you and me both. They suggest the rewards but I can change them, if you guys give me a reason to. I get lots of products sent to me and I give facials for a living so invite your friends to read Hotline Skin & who knows what can happen. I promise, it’s a really manageable number, just refer 3 people to start getting rewarded.
The first rewards are comped months of a paid subscription. This means access to Office Hours!
Office Hours Reminder
Join us for Office Hours on Sunday! This exclusive weekly opportunity is available to paying subscribers.
Every Sunday at 5pm EST, I’ll begin a new thread for the week in Substack Chat, where you can ask me anything. Every Monday from 5-6pm EST, I’ll be in that chat live, answering questions for the hour. That way, if you can’t make it, you can submit any time after 5pm Sunday and still get an answer. If you can make it live, join in! You can ask questions in real time and (hopefully) interact with others in class ;)
Sales & Discount Codes
20% off sale happening now (otherwise JOLIE for 15% off) some exclusions, Bioeffect included!
Buy more, save more happening now. Use Freeshippingsw for free shipping.
The moisturizer is so, so good
Experiment: JOLIE10 for 10% off
20% off sale happening now (otherwise JOLDEF15 for 15% off)
20% off happening now (otherwise JOLIE10 for 10% off)
If we had gotten into hair washing then I would have mentioned their new Rosemary Shampoo & Conditioner.
15% off sitewide happening now
JOLIE20 for 20% off through 5/31 (otherwise JOLDEF15 for 15% off)
20% off sitewide. They have a new cleanser I haven’t tried yet, but the brand has a very good track record with cleansers.
I’ll update this post if I see anything else mentioned on sale.
you can find all of my discount codes here
Have a great long weekend! Wear sunscreen & bring a hat.
xx,
Jolie
Reading this I realized all the cleansers I have are recs from you lol! 😂
Pretty much want to try all of these now!