The One Where I Get Really Mad at a New York Times Article
I promise not everything is a scam
Buckle up, friends!
Last Thursday, The New York Times published this piece about treating dark circles and it got me heated. Under the category tag “Scam or Not”, the article attempted to answer the title question “Is It Possible to Reverse the Dark Circles Under My Eyes?” Specifically, it sought to find out if topical eye products can really live up to their claims and if professional treatments are the only solution to dark circles. Today, let’s answer the same question by explaining all of the issues I have with their conclusion and providing my own.
The beginning of the article correctly explains that dark circles can be caused by a variety of different factors–genetics, hyperpigmentation, allergies, smoking, all the things that happen to your skin as you age, like collagen loss–and can appear in different shades. There are different ways to treat different causes, with some outcomes being better than others. This is about where I stop agreeing. Briefly before I tear this article apart–I can’t for certain place all blame on the author nor the people mentioned because I don’t know what information was cut during the editing process, if quotes were chopped up or taken out of context etc. Perhaps there was more to this piece in its original draft. One can hope. Okay let’s go.
Issue 1: The author spoke to 3 skincare professionals, dermatologists and plastic surgeons, all of whom have a financial incentive to promote cosmetic procedures over eye creams. I have no reason to doubt that these are qualified professionals in their field, but they are not the ones formulating, or likely interacting with eye products regularly. The author did not interview any formulators, chemists, brand owners, estheticians or makeup artists. They didn’t speak to anyone who does research (one of the dermatologists is cited as a clinical researcher, though it didn’t specify in what) or conducts clinical trials on products/ingredients that could really speak to claims and evidence. This is such a narrow and biased view!
Issue 2: You may notice that myself, the article and the people quoted in it, are very careful about our wording. Maybe you wouldn’t have, if I didn’t point it out. That’s sort of the point. The FDA (and many similar government agencies worldwide) differentiates between cosmetics and drugs, and has very specific laws around what claims and phrasing are permitted to be advertised. Drugs are strictly regulated and require rigorous testing because they are "articles intended for use in the diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease." You cannot just make drug claims! If you were allowed, how could you trust any medicine or product? Drugs have Drug Fact labels, like sunscreen, which explain important usage information, just like a prescription pill or tylenol bottle. If it’s not a drug, it’s a cosmetic. This doesn’t mean it won’t or can’t do anything, it just can’t make definitive claims that might confuse a consumer. You can get in serious trouble if you do, which is why brands and people are careful to say things like “this may reduce the appearance of dark circles” and not “this will reverse dark circles,” unless they have the drug approval to do so. May sounds a lot less convincing than will, so I want to make sure everyone understands these word choices are because of the law, not necessarily opinion. And because it sounds less convincing, brands often need to be really creative, in what they say to sell. It’s confusing on purpose! It is a failure of the article not to mention anything about this, as anyone reading who isn’t aware would easily fall into the trap of authority bias, trusting the opinions of the experts cited without questioning them. It wouldn’t be unreasonable to assume a dermatologist saying something may work is their skeptical expert opinion, not their legal requirement.
Issue 3: “Eye creams and serums that claim to improve dark circles can be expensive. And most haven’t undergone ‘any real intensive lab or clinical testing,’ Dr. Friedmann said, so they’re often ineffective.”
“Despite claims on product packaging or advertisements, there’s no scientific evidence that over-the-counter products actually get rid of dark circles, said Dr. Ronald Moy, a dermatologist and plastic surgeon in Beverly Hills, Calif.. ‘I think none of them work,’ he said. ‘I’ve never personally seen any improvement.’”
Literally everything can be expensive? Lol that’s your opener?? These statements are just as overgeneralized as the claims they're trying to refute! At least give me some examples! Let’s break down the claims of a product! Go through the intensive lab and clinical testing! I look for and appreciate good (and exorbitantly expensive) clinical testing very much, but the lack of it doesn’t automatically mean something doesn’t work. No scientific evidence? At all? None? You’re sure? Or do you “think” because you’ve “never personally seen any improvement”? Which ones have you tried, sir?Issue 4: In the very next paragraph, that same Dr. Moy points to research that he did in 2015 that shows promise about the use of topical epidermal growth factors (cough cough!!! We’ll get back to this later) in reducing the appearance of under-eye bags, going so far as to say in the article that EGF may lighten dark circles “‘to a modest degree.’” So…you have personally seen some improvement?
Issue 5: In the next paragraphs, a different dermatologist, Dr. Lee proceeds to list a number of ingredients that may help minimize dark circles, but not get rid of them permanently. These ingredients include caffeine, vitamin C, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid. She goes on to explain these may work to “hydrate and plump under-eye skin so the ‘underlying blood vessels are not as apparent.’” But adds “for the most part, you’d get the same hydrating effects with any kind of moisturizer — it doesn’t necessarily have to be one specific to dark circles.”
Ok, first of all! Hydrating and plumping under-eye skin to mask underlying blood vessels is not at all how all of those ingredients work! Caffeine is a vasoconstrictor, narrowing blood vessels and increasing circulation. It’s also a fantastic antioxidant, along with vitamin C and niacinamide, which, among other things–such as evening skin tone–may help protect against UV damage, which can worsen hyperpigmentation. Hyaluronic acid, and other hydrating ingredients, do plump up the thin skin under the eyes, which is thinner and more easily shows blood vessels underneath, so this is particularly beneficial. Yes, these things are temporary, and require consistent use to see results (like literally all skincare), but at least correctly explain how they temporarily work. Of course, the presence of these ingredients does not mean they will do these things, it all depends on formulation. And speaking of formulation…
Yeah, you could get the same plumping effects with a moisturizer, but this quote is exactly why input from a cosmetic chemist or esthetician is necessary. Eye creams are specifically formulated for the delicate eye area, which has some key differences from the rest of your face. It’s a much smaller surface area, so eye products tend to be much more concentrated. Face moisturizers are designed to evenly disperse ingredients across your face, so using them as your eye cream may not deposit enough. It’s also really important that eye creams don’t migrate into the eye. They need to stay put! Sunscreen ever burn your eyes? There ya go. Again, formulation is key here. Some moisturizers may be perfectly fine to use as your eye cream, but my point is that they are not necessarily interchangeable.Issue 6: “Over-the-counter products with retinol can help improve skin-cell turnover and thicken the skin, which might lighten dark circles temporarily, Dr. Friedmann said. Even better, Dr. Lee added, are prescription topical retinoids, which may work better than over-the-counter versions.”
At last, retinol. The tried and true ingredient is finally mentioned. Albeit, very confusingly. For starters, increased cell turnover and thickened skin is one of the most proven benefits of retinoids. Why do they need to say it’s temporary? It’s not necessarily temporary! It’s no more temporary than using an over-the-counter retinol for your face, in that if you stop using it, you may stop seeing the results, right? That point seems to be added only to reinforce the idea that topical eye products are inferior to things like lasers and surgery, things only dermatologists and plastic surgeons can provide. But wait! Prescription topical retinoids may work even better. True! There’s just one thing… DO NOT PUT PRESCRIPTION RETINOIDS NEAR YOUR EYES UNLESS YOU HAVE A PRESCRIPTION RETINOID EYE CREAM, WHICH ISN’T VERY COMMON!!!!!!! This just screamed irresponsible reporting to me. One of the guiding rules when using retinoids, especially prescription strength, is to avoid the eye area. Why? Because they are not formulated for the thin and delicate skin around your eyes, which is much more likely to be irritated and trust me, you don’t want tretinoin accidentally getting in there. Retinoid eye products are specifically formulated for this area to avoid potential irritation. Avoid the eye area and the corners of your mouth and nose.Issue 7: “But dark-circle products can range from tens to hundreds of dollars. And spending more doesn’t yield better results. There’s typically no difference between drugstore and high-end products, other than ‘fancier packaging,’ Dr. Lee said.
Dr. Moy added, ‘It’s hope in a bottle.’”I ask again, lol what?? Why do you keep harping on the price without any further exploration? T-shirts can range from tens to hundreds of dollars. A more expensive t-shirt isn’t always better than a more affordable t-shirt. Having a designer label allows you to sell a t-shirt for more money than a t-shirt without one. There are affordable t-shirts I love and wear, but I do actually see a huge difference between my Leset t-shirts and less expensive ones. But even if I didn’t notice a difference, I still haven’t tried every t-shirt, so I can’t say what’s typical. and…THAT WAS IT. The end of the eye cream defense and they did not have good representation! They didn’t stand a chance!
Issue 8: “Some treatments can brighten dark circles, keep them from getting worse and sometimes get rid of them altogether, depending on what’s causing them, Dr. Lee said.”
That is also how various topical eye products may work to combat dark circles caused by different things… but let’s focus on the treatment options offered in this final section: lasers, chemical peels, microneedling, filler and surgery. Each of these options are presented with significantly more detail than any offered for the topicals. Specific lasers are named, the processes are described and the benefits are clearly explained. They also touch on the various risks associated with each as well the fact that some of these treatments are best done in a series or when combined with others. They’re careful here not to make any lofty promises, but they article ends in such a bizarre way:
“And it’s not always possible to get rid of them completely, especially if your skin is showing signs of aging, Dr. Friedmann said.
He recommended seeking treatment as early as possible, such as in your 20s, instead of waiting until your 40s or later, when you have less collagen to work with.”
So your ultimate conclusion is that people in their 20s shouldn’t even bother with trying topical treatments and start these advanced, extremely expensive treatments as soon as possible? Really? That’s the only advice to offer? What is the point of this piece?
I’ve been thinking a lot about why a short article about dark circles made me so annoyed. Initially, of course, there was a little jealousy–why am I not writing about dark circle treatments for the NYT? I could have written a much better piece! I have done so! But that wasn’t the full reason.
I cannot tell you how many times a day I’m debunking myths that clients and followers read on the Internet or saw on social media. The reach of this article is huge and is going to confuse (scam?) people into thinking that there is no point in using eye products. Or to feel like there is just no hope? It’s unnecessarily pessimistic!
Even if it wasn’t the intended purpose, the framing of this piece from the get go (Scam or Not) implies skepticism towards skincare. The overall tone plus those interviewed only lend themselves to the idea that taking care of your skin is a frivolous and fruitless endeavor. It’s kind of insulting! To my work as an esthetician and to anyone looking for help with dark circles that can’t afford or doesn’t want advanced procedures. I talk about this stuff on a regular basis, explain the causes, options, managing expectations, making recommendations. I also keep up with new products and ingredient technologies. I’d never expect one article to comprehensively cover everything about dark circles, but there’s a substantial part of the story missing. Substantial might even be too gracious. The majority of the article provides nothing! There are no recommendations for products to try, very little about the causes nor any advice about preventing dark circles in the first place, like wearing sunscreen and sunglasses. The only substantive educational information is in the final section about advanced treatment options.
It’s true, the eye area is very difficult to treat, dark circles in particular. It’s extremely unlikely that you’ll see complete reversal with anything topical, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t things that can help. For some people, these little improvements are all they’re looking for! And even if the products don’t improve what’s already there, they can certainly help prevent it from getting worse.
I have absolutely no problem with any of the advanced procedure options mentioned. I have a little filler under my eyes, which I got about a year ago because of my dark circles. Lasers are wondrous, I am a huge fan of microneedling, and I give people chemical peels everyday. But I also use products every single day that help me maintain and prevent. So let’s end with some concrete recommendations. Remember, nothing in skincare is a miracle, everyone has different results and depending on the cause of your dark circles, some may notice more improvement than others. These products may help to improve the appearance of dark circles, either by thickening the skin, increasing circulation, hydrating, lightening pigmentation or even temporarily correcting the color.
Bioeffect EGF Eye Serum: This is what my cough cough!!! was referring to. Dr. Moy thinks epidermal growth factors show promise and so do I. If this product sounds familiar it’s because I mention the brand in pretty much everything I write and recommend it all the time. Everyone’s skin can benefit from growth factors, we naturally make them! But that slows down when we turn 25, so a growth factor serum helps replenish and stimulate new ones. Most basically, growth factors make our skin more efficient and optimized. They boost your other products and help with fine lines, wrinkles, hydration, dark spots and just generally make your skin more youthful. You can use them everyday and with everything. Bioeffect makes some of the very best I’ve seen, the eye serum being one of my favorite products of all time. Use it on your lids too. It’s thin so you can add an eye cream on top if you need extra hydration, though I often use it solo. You can also up the ante using it under their eye patches.
Dr. Dennis Gross Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Triple Correction Eye Serum: A great eye serum with retinol. I wouldn’t start off using it daily, but you can work your way up.
Some By Mi Retinol Advanced Intense Triple Action Eye Cream: I’ve been using this since November and really like it. If your eye area is drier or you just prefer a cream to a serum, you may like this and it’s under $25. The name makes it sound strong, but the formula has plenty of skin soothers and hydrators as well as peptides and more than one type of retinoid.
Peace Out Retinol Eye Stick: This isn’t my personal favorite, but a stick couldn’t be easier to use (consistency is key!) and many love it.
Naturium Multi-Peptide Eye Cream: A great affordable option! Along with other peptides, it has Argireline® Amplified, one of the most studied peptides for fine lines & wrinkles in the game, super impressive for just $16. This one is more for lines and wrinkles than dark circle improvements, but improvements in those areas beget others.
Retrouvé Revitalizing Eye Concentrate Skin Hydrator: And a great expensive option! They said it wasn’t possible but look at me running the gamut. I know the formulators of this brand and they know what they’re doing. It can be used as an overnight eye mask too. This one is also a makeup artist secret as it looks fantastic under concealer.
ACWELL Licorice pH Balancing Intensive Eye Cream: I picked this up at the same time as the Some By Mi and was not anticipating how much I would like it! I was intrigued by the licorice water + extract, which is a great brightening ingredient, as well as a nice selection of antioxidants and peptides, including caffeine. It has some light reflecting pigments as well so it really does make your eye area appear brighter immediately.
Jordan Samuel The Performance Eye Gel: A longtime favorite eye gel, it feels super nice to apply and has caffeine, green tea extract & peptides to rejuvenate and brighten the eye area. Also works great under reusable eye patches.
Ole Henriksen Banana Bright Eye Crème: Color correcting eye creams have been around for a while and are a great solution to neutralizing dark circles (yes, temporarily, but still!) I like this one, but there are many brands that make similar products with slightly different hues, which can work better for different skin tones/severity of dark circles.
SkinMedica Instant Eye Bright Patches: The GOAT. Use these and tell me you don’t notice your dark circles look better. I try to save for special events, but I really just love them. One of their greatest features is how well they adhere to your skin. No sliding.
Three Other Things
I can’t decide how I feel about the new Rhode phone case that holds your Rhode lipgloss. Utility and marketing wise, it’s brilliant. Something you can never find when you need it now has a home on something that’s always by your side, if not in your hand. And you can’t really ask for a better advertisement. People take note of unique phone cases! But on the other hand, do people really want to be a walking billboard for Rhode? Doesn’t it look kinda stupid if you’re not Hailey Beiber? Also, to make people choose between their peptide lip treatment and octo case?? Emily Sundberg alerted us to other brands toying with the same idea in her newsletter yesterday.
Speaking of my beloved Emily Sundberg, Emily co-hosted the Fat Mascara podcast this week and mentioned me around minute 24! What a thrill!!!!
Are you going to try Beyoncé’s new hair brand, Cécred? The packaging is absolutely stunning, I think it would make my shower look so luxurious. Cosmetic Chemist Javon Ford, did an excellent breakdown of the products and what he’d recommend for different hair types.
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xx,
Jolie
Thank you for this breakdown - I always get so lost with under eye products!
Great informative article!