Splotches, Blotches & Scars
tips for battling pigmentation
Hello hello, happy Tuesday!
Over the weekend, I got an email from Substack telling me that I am officially a Substack bestseller!!!!!!!! I immediately burst into tears. I then also bought some lottery tickets (I won $2, so, hey!) I’ve been writing this newsletter for over 7 years and seeing my work gain some recognition like this just means so much. Whether you’ve been here since the beginning or are just joining us, thank you thank you thank you. Paid subscriptions are currently just $44/year, which I’m extending to this Friday, after which they will return to $50. Congratulations to LIZA for winning this week’s giveaway. Check your email!
Credo Beauty’s sitewide 20% off sale started today through Sunday, May 4th. You can see all of my recommendations here, but wanted to share a few highlights:
Kosas Revealer Extra Bright Serum-Powered Color Corrector: the subject of this entire post. All shades still in stock as of now. Revolutionized my undereyes.
Eyes That Tok Mascara: been my favorite mascara for a few years now. Black is sold out, but I also love the brown and they may restock this week. Otherwise, the Tower28 MakeWaves is a super solid mascara choice.
Nécessaire The Body Wash Santal and The Hand Cream: my 2 favorite products from the brand. The Santal body wash has epsom salt + minerals. The Hand Cream is the literally just the best reliable everyday hand cream, I keep by my bed, my desk and in my work bag. It’s one of my go-to gifts.
One Love Organics Cleansing Oil: my favorite cleansing oil, but it’s $$ so I always wait for a sale. Smells like a piña colada, good for all skin types including acne.
Westman Atelier Super Loaded Tinted Highlight and Face Trace Contour Stick: my most worn makeup products. For the highlight, I like peach or rose. Tap a little on my high cheekbones and bring into the eye area for a little shimmer.
Doré Micellar Water: this was sent to me last year and I’ve since repurchased both the full and travel size. Surpassed Bioderma as my favorite micellar water.
Bloomeffects SPF Stick: glowy, but not greasy and actually clear. The only mineral SPF stick I’ve ever liked even a little bit.
Hyperpigmentation is a beast. It’s notoriously hard to get rid of because there are actually multiple processes in your skin that need to be interrupted. But not all hope is lost–the earlier you start to address it the better, but ideally you’ll learn how to prevent the process from starting all together. In the questions I’m answering today, we’ll see the different causes and options to treat. But first, let’s review a little skin science.
Melanocytes are the pigment producing cells at the base of the epidermis (the top layer of skin, which is actually composed of five layers). Melanocytes produce pigment granules called melanin. Something most people don’t realize is that everyone actually has the same exact number of melanocytes, but in lighter skin tones they are just less active, producing less melanin. Hyperpigmentation happens when there is excess melanin production in an uneven way.
Keratinocytes are our skin cells. Like melanocytes, they begin at the base of the epidermis, but unlike melanocytes, they are constantly dividing into new baby skin cells and moving up to the surface. This is cell turnover.
Knowing those terms, here is a *very simplified* version of how hyperpigmentation forms:
Melanocytes are stimulated (by the sun, inflammation or pregnancy/hormones)
Inside melanocytes, the enzyme tyrosinase converts into melanin
The melanin gets transferred to keratinocytes, which travel up to the surface
The pigmented cells cause visible hyperpigmentation/discoloration on the surface
Once this process “turns on” it’s hard to turn off, so you need to take a multi-faceted approach to treating and preventing.
This multi-faceted approach includes:
Preventing/reducing melanocyte stimulation (reducing sun exposure and inflammation)
Inhibiting tyrosinase activity to reduce melanin production (using tyrosinase inhibiting ingredients)
Reducing the transfer of melanin to keratinocytes (fewest options available, mostly niacinamide, soy and retinoids, so focus on the other steps)
Encourage increased cell turnover to shed off the pigmented cells on the surface (exfoliate off the pigmented cells)
I am going to stop there. You don’t need to remember the specifics, just remember that multiple things need to be interrupted to fully get rid of hyperpigmentation. This is why it can be so stubborn. The deeper/more extreme the damage, the longer this takes.
Hi, I'm pregnant and beginning to get melasma for the first time ever.... what can I do to calm my little red face?
Congratulations! And also, ugh! I’m sorry, melasma sucks. Melasma is a form of hyperpigmentation characterized by large patches of brownish discoloration*, usually symmetrical. While all hyperpigmentation is tricky to get rid of, melasma tends to be the most stubborn. I don’t say this to scare you, but I think it’s important to manage expectations. The good news is that if it occurs for the first time during pregnancy, it’s possible that it may go away on its own when you are no longer pregnant, often resolving a few months after delivery.
Remember that the process all starts with the melanocytes being overstimulated. With melasma, this is happening on overdrive. In addition to hormone stimulation, already active melanocytes can be easily triggered even more by the sun, which is why those with melasma need to be extraordinarily cautious with sun exposure. Wear broad-spectrum SPF 50+ every single day and reapply. Adding a tinted product on top, like tinted spf, foundation or concealer, can also help (I’m working on an explainer for this…coming soon!) Wear a hat. Avoid saunas or anything that generates heat.
In addition to sunscreen, antioxidants can help further protect your skin. Truly everyone should be using an antioxidant serum, but definitely grab one if you’re battling pigment. There are soooo many types of antioxidants and they’re basically added to everything, but look for ingredients like Vitamin C, niacinamide, resveratrol, green tea, bakuchiol, ferulic acid, CoQ10, glutathione, kojic acid, azelaic acid, even retinoids. Many of these ingredients are also tyrosinase-inhibitors. Tyrosinase-inhibitors are crucial for interrupting pigment formation.
Outside of prevention efforts, treating melasma while pregnant becomes extra tricky because two of the most comprehensive effective treatments–hydroquinone and prescription retinoids–can’t be used while pregnant. Certain peels, lasers and other professional treatments can also help, though your options may be limited until after delivery.
So extremely diligent sun protection and reducing sun exposure in general is the name of the game for you. Up until a few years ago, that would have been pretty much my only recommendation. But the good news is that the Sachi Skin Triphala Pigmentation Corrector exists! It’s a groundbreaking non-AHA/retinoid/hydroquinone formula that addresses all steps in the pigmentation process and has been proven to help with melasma (along with pretty much any other type of pigment). It’s pregnancy and breastfeeding safe and I just love it so much! Start by using once a day before moisturizer, but you can increase to twice a day if tolerated. You can even mix a pump into your moisturizer if it feels a little tingly at first.
Triphala would be my top choice for melasma, but here are a few other options to try for melasma or stubborn pigment in general.
Dr. Idriss Major Fade System (I love the moisturizer on its own, but using all 3 will give you a well-rounded ingredient profile. Beware the mask is SPICY.)
Allies of Skin Azelaic + Kojic Acid Clarifying Serum (use this if texture/redness is also a concern)
Allies of Skin Tranexamic Acid + Arbutin Advanced Brightening Serum
Environ Radiance System (you can’t buy this easily online, but we sell at my studio, so including for any clients who are like wait…but you told me this. Yes, I stand by that)
*melasma is usually various shades of brown, but can be reddish if inflamed, which I think is what this person is experiencing.
Any tips for reducing scars/hyperpigmentation on your legs? They’re the aftermath of picking some deep ingrown hairs 🙈
No need to be ashamed, it happens! A lot of the advice from above is applicable here: sun protection, sun protection, sun protection. The serums above work, but you’re probably better off using a body specific product to easily cover the whole surface area and address the thicker body skin, which can usually handle more intense exfoliation. You can also get hydroquinone prescribed, as well as do some in-office treatments.
In terms of body specific products, look for ingredients like niacinamide, arbutin, vitamin C, kojic acid, licorice extract, as well as exfoliants like glycolic and lactic acid. The LILIS Body Peel is a fantastic choice as it’s a gommage exfoliating peel (balls up your dead skin, super satisfying!) with brightening and anti-inflammatory ingredients that you can even use daily on your legs. Their Firming Serum also has brightening ingredients. (Btw, summertime PSA: the LILIS products are elite for self-tan or spray tans.)
Naturium has tons of great, affordable body products. I’d specifically check out the glycolic acid body wash and glycolic acid lotion. They also offer the “smooth for summer body bundle” lol which has both of those products, plus an exfoliating body scrub/mask, that’s marketed for KP/rough and bumpy skin, but you can still use.
Topicals is pretty famous for their “faded” line, but I personally don’t love a cleansing bar. I do like their exfoliating body serum though, which has lactic, glycolic, urea and retinol. Finally, Necessaire has an intriguing looking radiance body serum, with a high concentration of vitamin C, tranexamic acid and enzymes, which is a neat ingredient profile.
How do I improve acne scars? I tend to pop my pimples (I know, I know), but they relieve my stress. My little cousin (3 years old) asked me why I had so many red dots on my face. Punch in the gut! Help!
The theme of the day is: the pigment on your body is causing a special kind of hell! Why did your cousin have to do you like that? I’m sorry. I am obviously not wishing acne upon a 3 year-old, but I bet one day, they’ll learn the error of their ways.
First, a tip: if you feel the urge to pop, ice instead! Icing is fabulous for breakouts and is a differently satisfying tactile experience. Grab an ice cube or freeze some water in these mini shot glasses and move around in small circles until your fingers can’t take it. If you want to create a physical barrier after, pat dry then slap on a pimple patch.
Now, onto improvement. First off, you guessed it, sun protection! UV rays trigger inflammation and make it impossible for your scars to heal.
The best type of scarring specific product depends on the type of scarring. You mention red dots, so I’m assuming you mean pigmentation scars, not textural ones. Some things will work for both, but I’m focusing on the former.
Within pigmentation scars, there are two categories: Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH), which is black/brown and caused by excess melanin production due to inflammation and Post-Inflammatory Erythema (PIE), which is red/pink and the result blood vessel damage in response to inflammation. Since they’re both leftover from acne, people often refer to PIE as PIH, but the distinction matters in terms of what you’re trying to address. Both can take time to fade though and you can have both.
PIH, being an overproduction of melanin (pigment produced by melanocyte cells), requires ingredients that block pigment production, so check out the melasma recommendations above.
PIE, being erythema leftover from vessel dilation, requires ingredients that help to calm the skin and reduce inflammation. Many anti-inflammatory ingredients are also great for pigment, so any of the serums above will still help, especially the azelaic acid. But I’d also look at Sachi’s Pro-Resilience Serum (my favorite of their products because I can use it under my LED), NIOD’s Copper Peptide Serum or Lipid, Allies of Skin Copper Peptide Serum and Naturium Azelaic Acid Emulsion. For pimples just starting to heal, use Hero Cosmetics Rescue Balm liberally. Oh, and of course, a high-quality LED mask.
Last note on LED–you can use it if you have melasma or are melasma-prone, but only a mask that is just red light/near infrared (not blue) and that doesn’t have too high of an irradiance, so it doesn’t get hot. Any mask that gets hot while you wear it is an absolute no. Just one of the many reasons why CurrentBody Series 2 is my top rec for literally everyone.
Office Hours Reminder
Join us for Office Hours on Sunday! This exclusive weekly opportunity is available to paying subscribers.
Every Sunday at 5pm EST, I’ll begin a new thread for the week in Substack Chat, where you can ask me anything. Every Monday from 5-6pm EST, I’ll be in that chat live, answering questions for the hour. That way, if you can’t make it, you can submit any time after 5pm Sunday and still get an answer. If you can make it live, join in! You can ask questions in real time and (hopefully) interact with others in class ;)
Discount Codes
Allies of Skin: JOLIE for 20% off
CurrentBody: JOLIECB for 10% off
Dermstore: JOLIE for 15% off (they sell Hero Cosmetics here!)
LILIS: JOLDEF for 15% off
Naturium: JOLDEF15 for 15% off
NIOD: 20% off Copper Peptides through the end of April
Sachi Skin: JOLIE15 for 15% off
Whew! That was a lot. Thanks for reading. Have a great week!
xx,
Jolie
congrats, you deserve allll the accolades! this post is so educational in the most accessible way 🥰
GO BESTSELLER!!!