Glass Windows & Glass Skin
it's been a reflection filled week
Hey all –
Everyone agrees this January was one million years long, right? Just a few more hours and we’ll be done, hallelujah. This week my family said goodbye to my beloved grandfather. We’ve been pouring through decades of photos and sharing almost a century of memories. According to my aunt, even at 96 he still washed his face (with bar soap, but he, and only he, gets a pass). I didn’t have time to work on an update re: my psoriasis investigation, so that plus a deep dive into underarm Botox coming soon. In the meantime, grab your Merit lighters & light up a cigar for Grandpa Frank. That sentence will make more sense later. <3
Just moved to a new office with tons of natural light. Aside from reapplying sunscreen regularly and closing the curtains, is there anything else I can do to protect my skin?
First, let me just say kudos to you for thinking about this. UV exposure through windows is very overlooked, presumably because you’re not getting burned while indoors.
UVB rays burn the skin (remember B for burning) and for the most part, can’t penetrate through glass. UVB strength fluctuates depending on the season and time of day. On the other hand, UVA rays are primarily responsible for aging the skin (remember A for aging) and can penetrate through glass and windows. The strength of UVA rays is relatively constant throughout the year, meaning they’re just as intense on sunny days as cloudy ones. UVA rays are why we really mean it when we say sunscreen 365 days a year. Both UVB and UVA rays are carcinogenic, though UVB is more linked to cancer.
The best example of the power of UVA through glass is the classic tale of a truck driver, whose left side was exposed to significantly more UVA damage over 28 years than his right side. His photo has been scaring people into wearing sunscreen since 2012.
So what can you do to protect your skin? You pretty much nailed it. Sunscreen is, as usual, your best friend here. Find one you like to wear everyday and can reapply, even over makeup. SPF only refers to UVB protection, so it must be labeled broad spectrum (in the US) or have a PA rating (everywhere else) to indicate UVA protection. Ideally, SPF 50+ and PA++++. My favorite sunscreen of all time fits all the criteria above and you know I love this sunscreen stick for easy reapplication. The easiest way to avoid UV exposure is obviously to remove yourself from it, so closing the curtains is great, though I understand wanting to take advantage of that natural light, so maybe you can strategically position your desk away from the window. If your office allows, there are some window tints and treatments that can be applied to block UV (newer windows may already have this) or you can install a lower blind, so your body isn’t getting a direct hit while still allowing light in.
Finally, if you want to go all the way, you can look into UV protective clothing. Hats are great and I carry this scarf around with me pretty much everywhere I go. When I used to work in an office, I had an office scarf. I don’t have a car, but if I did I would probably wear driving gloves. Many brands make UPF clothing, but some of my favorites are Uniqlo, Solbari and Coolibar.
January Empties
I’m getting married this year so I’ve been reallllllly stepping back on trying too many new things. Here’s everything I finished this month, all but 3 of which were already staples in my routine and had backups ready/been repurchased.
Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Watery Sun Gel: Never needs an introduction, but especially now since I just mentioned it. My favorite sunscreen ever. Moisturizing, invisible and dewy as hell.
Sachi Skin Pro-Resilience Serum: The name says it all. Makes your skin more resilient via advanced hydrators, peptides and antioxidants. I use morning and night for deep hydration and under my LED.
Naturium Multi-Peptide Moisturizer: A favorite everyday, lightweight, good under makeup $20 moisturizer. They also released a jumbo version today!
Bioeffect Essence: Using an essence morning and night makes such a difference in my skin and is my favorite way to combat dehydration. This one has epidermal growth factors which help with collagen production, among other great skin benefits. I usually apply 2-3 layers.
Naturium Glow Getter Body Wash: One of their bestsellers for a reason. The oil-to-gel formula feels so nice and silky and is also great for shaving. Huge pump bottle, $16, smells so good (like an amaretti cookie imo).
Prequel Universal Skin Solution Mist: Hypochlorous acid is once again very trendy, but has some very important usage criteria. I was first introduced to the ingredient many years ago via a prescription cleanser, but you can find much more affordable and accessible formulations now. I finished my first bottle and immediately ordered a second. I found it very effective for my needs, love the chlorine-y smell and love love love the mister. I put water in the empty one because I like it so much. I mainly use it to clean pimples before patching, when I’m wearing a mask or if I have a rash/dermatitis, like on my hands from overwashing.
Tocobo Bio Watery Sun Cream SPF: I get why this sunscreen has a cult following (it has maximum protection, almost disappears the second you apply and feels very soft), but I still prefer Isntree for the lighter consistency and much dewier finish. The Tocobo also has an initial mild alcohol scent that goes away when it dries down, but isn’t my jam.
Ourself Daily Purifying Cleanser: I actually loved this cleanser, which shocked me because I wasn’t a fan of the brand’s other products at all. Honestly, it’s a pretty perfect gel cleanser: lathers into a gentle foam, rinses easily and leaves your skin noticeably soft and hydrated. Definitely not the last time I’ll use it, but right now I have too many other cleansers to get through to justify buying another for $55.
Three Other Things
I mentioned above not liking the other Ourself products I’ve tried, which includes their famed lip plumper, which gave me a rash.* To the brand’s credit, they helped me figure out I have a sensitivity to Benzyl Nicotinate, a common plumping ingredient, which explains why I’ve had similar reactions to the Too Faced and Dr. Devgan lip plumpers. However, as proof that formulation matters over ingredients, I’ve never had any issues with the Dr. Dennis Gross lip plumper, which also has Benzyl Nicotinate.
*One of my proudest esthetic feats: I applied the plumper and developed the rash while getting ready for a wedding, panicked and said I wasn’t going, but worked a miracle in 25 minutes with LED, this serum and an ungodly amount of concealer.
Makeup is really something, ain’t it? The models at Margiela’s couture show looked like literal porcelain dolls and no one, including me, could believe their eyes. Legendary makeup artist Dame Pat McGrath made their skin smooth and reflective like glass yet distinctly not wet or dewy. In BTS videos we could see the product was applied over makeup, dry to the touch and later peeled off. Originally the prevailing theory (thank you for your service, Kirbie Johnson) was the professional special effects makeup product, Kryolan Liquid Glass, but Pat commented on a video commending the detective work, but ultimately teasing a different, yet to be named, product. Right now my money's on the theory from makeup artist Erin Parsons.
For their third anniversary, minimalist makeup brand Merit released a limited-edition gold lighter case with orders over $75. This upset a lot of customers who felt this was endorsing cigarette smoking. Seems like they forgot that lighters can be used to light any number of things, which is interesting because one would think the venn diagram of “people who use Merit” and “people who light candles and/or incense” would be a circle. (Personally, my favorite Merit product is the free Signature Bag with your first purchase, then the Signature Lightweight Lipstick and I’m currently burning Hotel Lobby Candle’s Linen Candle.)
Office Hours Reminder
Join us for Office Hours on Sunday! This exclusive weekly opportunity is available to paying subscribers.
Every Sunday at 5pm EST, I’ll begin a new thread for the week in Substack Chat, where you can ask me anything. Every Monday from 5-6pm EST, I’ll be in that chat live, answering questions for the hour. That way, if you can’t make it, you can submit any time after 5pm Sunday and still get an answer. If you can make it live, join in! You can ask questions in real time and (hopefully) interact with others in class ;)
Discount Codes
Naturium: JOLDEF15 for 15% off
Ställe Studios: HOTLINESKIN for 15% off
Have a great week!
xx,
Jolie