Facials 101
what to expect when you're expecting someone to touch your face
Hello friends!
I am often asked for advice about facials – where to go, what to book, what to expect – so I’m excited to share with you the 101 on facials! Though this newsletter focuses on the basics, whether it’s your first time or your 100th time, I hope you’ll find it useful for the next time your skin is in the hands of a professional. I asked my friend and fellow esthetician, Lara Kaiser, for her assistance answering these questions. She’s a seasoned esthetician in NYC and has given me some of the best facials I’ve ever gotten in my life. I’ve also opened up comments on this post so that Lara and I can answer any additional questions throughout the next week.
What is a facial?
At its most basic, a facial is when a professional performs a service on your skin intended to improve the overall health, quality and appearance of your skin. Facials can include any number of specialized treatments, but your standard facial generally includes cleansing, exfoliation, extractions, massages and customized mask. Facials can address acne, fine lines/wrinkles, dullness, texture, pores, inflammation and more. A facial is also an opportunity for a professional to take a close look at your skin, provide recommendations for home care and answer any questions you have. A facial is also often very relaxing! Though most commonly performed on faces, you can also get back facials or a number of esthetic services on other parts of your body.
Where do I get a facial?
Facials are offered in many settings, most commonly at a boutique spa, day spa, med spa or dermatologist office. Where you get your treatment determines the type of offerings available, but you should always be treated by a professional, such as a licensed esthetician. The scope of what services an esthetician can provide varies by state (and country). Some estheticians can be trained to administer certain types of advanced treatments or to use lasers/other devices, but some may only be administered by a medical professional. In general, estheticians cannot legally do anything that penetrates deeper than the epidermis (top layer of skin), so the peels and microneedling services you’d receive from a medical professional will be deeper and stronger (though not everyone needs that intensity!)
What qualifications should I look for when choosing a provider?
Licensed and insured at the bare minimum. Most places will have these prominently displayed. Years of experience count, followers don’t. If there is a specific skincare line you like, you can look on their website to find a provider who works with the line. When in doubt, Google is your friend! Read reviews, check out bios on websites. Though not all providers have a strong social media presence, if they do, it is a good idea to look at some before and afters of actual clients.
What are some different types of facials?
Offerings can vary widely and there are dozens of types of add-ons or advanced treatment offerings depending on where you go. The main thing to remember is that your facialist can always adjust, so don’t be embarrassed if you book the “wrong” thing and never be afraid to call/email in advance to ask if you’re not sure.
If it’s your first time, Lara recommends a standard facial as a good place to start, as the basic offering can still be customized to your concerns and will give you the chance to discuss options for future treatments before committing. This offering may simply be called a “basic” or “standard” facial. At a specialty spa, this “basic” offering may be more comprehensive than just cleanse, exfoliate, extract, massage, mask, but it’s usually the first (and cheapest) option on the menu offering. Some spas have specialty facials for deep pore cleansing, acne, rosacea, mature skin, etc. If you know you have those concerns, you can book those. Additionally, some spas may have a “signature” facial, which is usually what they are known for and can be another good starting point.
“Red carpet facials” essentially mean you are prepping your skin for makeup, so no extractions and a focus on moisture and glow. The name may not be as obvious as “red carpet” but the description of the service should make it clear that this is a facial before special events with no downtime. Special occasions are not the time for experimenting so you don’t want to do anything that will leave you red or potentially irritated.
Advanced treatments are usually going to be less relaxing and more clinical, so it’s important to know they could come with downtime or pain.
As mentioned, there are endless options for add-ons, but some common ones include microdermabrasion, peels, oxygen boost, LED and microcurrent. If you’re unsure what to book in advance, you can let your facialist know you’re open to add-ons if they think they’re necessary, or just ask for recommendations for the future. It can be as simple as “I’m interested in some additional treatments, what would you recommend for my skin?” Don’t feel like you need to know the differences or any terminology. You can also call ahead and ask what they’d recommend for booking so that they can make sure you reserve enough time. A good facialist will also advise you when not to do something – if you book an add-on that they don’t think is the right option for you, don’t fret! They are professionals for a reason and can figure out a new treatment plan.
What should I expect at a facial appointment?
Before: you will be asked to fill out an intake form, which includes basic information about your medical history, skincare concerns, allergies and medications. Be honest! Your provider will use this information to ensure they are using the right products for your skin. It’s a good rule of thumb to discontinue use of retinoids and exfoliants a few days before, but if you don’t remember just let your provider know. Use the restroom before the appointment starts.
During: your provider will perform a skin analysis, which may include looking at your skin under a lamp. There may be a steamer and you can expect a little discomfort during extractions. Don’t be afraid to say if you don’t like something or to ask questions. Otherwise, it is okay to just relax or even fall asleep.
After: you may be a little pink, red or blotchy from extractions or more advanced treatments, but your skin will still look glowy and hydrated. Unless otherwise told, avoid exfoliating for a few days and stick to a simple routine. Don’t skimp on sunscreen! If there is any specific aftercare, your provider should tell you and be sure to ask if they don’t.
What is proper facial etiquette?
Leave jewelry at home if you remember, otherwise you’ll be asked to take it off. (I take off all my earrings and necklaces, but leave my nose piercing in and ask beforehand if I need to take it out.)
Dirty hair is ok because it might get a little messed up/product on it.
Don’t come in if you’re sick or have an active cold sore.
Make sure you budget for tip! Anything is appreciated, but 18-25% is standard.
When should I see an esthetician vs. dermatologist?
Your esthetician should tell you if it’s time to see a dermatologist. Estheticians cannot diagnose or prescribe, but they can provide treatment for most skin conditions. It is advised to see a dermatologist once a year for a full skin exam. If you have a rash, severe acne, changing lesions or find yourself saying things like “I have had this dry patch above my eye for 3 months,” those are signs to seek out a dermatologist. Estheticians can provide services for acne, eczema, rosacea and other chronic skin conditions, but those are good times to be diligent and check with the provider for their expertise beforehand and not just find the cheapest Groupon.
If you can afford it or enjoy getting facials, you can get one every 6 weeks, once a quarter, twice a year…the frequency really depends on your skin and needs! Ask your provider what they’d recommend for your goals. Acne and hyperpigmentation can be the most difficult to treat, so you can expect to need more than one appointment to see continued improvement.
What information should I be sure to share with my provider?
Communication is key! Even if it is covered in your intake form, be sure to always let your provider know if you:
are pregnant or nursing
have a pacemaker or other implant
take any prescription topical or oral medications that may impact your skin
if you use retinoids
have diabetes
have seizures
any allergies (especially to nuts, fruit, latex, medications or ingredients)
have had any injectables
get claustrophobic
Though it doesn’t always mean you won’t be able to get your treatment, some of the above may be contraindicated for certain types of services or devices.
How do I book with you or Lara?
The question on everyone’s mind! To book with Lara, click here and follow her on Instagram to learn when appointments open for the next month. She is a very popular lady, so if nothing is available you can also send her a DM to get on the waitlist.
I am not currently offering in person services (yet…) but I offer a number of virtual consults that you can book from anywhere in the world! During our consult, I can also advise on what types of facials and treatments I’d recommend for your skin. Click here to book.
We hope this helps you feel more empowered going into your next facial. If your esthetician is anything like myself or Lara, we love nothing more than chatting about skin and above all, want you to enjoy the experience and results, so don’t be afraid to ask questions. Have any for us? Leave a comment below. If you have a non-facial related question, click the button to ask a question and you might just see it answered in a future issue!
xoxo,
Jolie