An Interview with Dr. Dennis Gross
can you believe?!
Hello my friends! I’m coming to you today with a very, very exciting interview that I’ve been so excited to share. While this newsletter is still taking a little sabbatical while I finish school, this couldn’t wait any longer. But first, a little housekeeping:
If you, like me, are overwhelmed with the amount of sale emails in your inbox, you might want to check out the gift and sale guides I created here.
Consults continue to be the highlight of my week and you can book yours here! You can even gift a consult. Word on the street is that consults are the hottest gift this season.
Now to the main event!
If you’ve followed me for a while, you are very familiar with my nightly companion – the Dr. Dennis Gross DRx SpectraLite Faceware Pro LED mask. I use it every single night and it is one of my top acne-fighting tools. Unlike other LED masks available, it has both red and blue light, which makes it an excellent pick for anyone struggling with acne, as blue light LED kills acne-causing bacteria. But even before I became betrothed to my mask, I was a fan of Dr. Dennis Gross – the Alpha Beta Peels are one of my longest standing skincare relationships. So imagine my absolute delight when the man behind it all, THE Dr. Dennis Gross, agreed to an interview. We talked peels, LED and of course, his favorite pen. Read it below and click the button to shop everything we talked about plus my top picks from the brand.
I’d be shocked if anyone reading this hasn’t heard of you and your brand, but just in case, let’s start with a brief introduction – who is Dr. Dennis Gross?!
I’m flattered. My name is Dr. Dennis Gross and I’m a board-certified dermatologist and former skin cancer researcher at Memorial Sloan Kettering. My wife and I founded Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare over 20 years ago and we’re now one of the leading skincare brands around the world, sold at Sephora, Nordstrom, Dermstore, SpaceNK, TMall and so forth. I’m also a practicing dermatologist with practices on the Upper East Side and in the Hamptons.
Why did you decide to build a skincare brand? Did you always know you were going to have your own line?
While I was working as a skin cancer researcher at Memorial Sloane Kettering, I craved in person interaction. The science itself was incredibly fascinating and still inspires much of my work and products today. However, I really wanted to be able to work directly with patients and help catch skin cancer early, which lead to the creation of my ongoing practice. In the 90s, really harsh chemical peels were trending -- but they required tremendous downtime and resulted in red, and irritated and damaged skin. This inspired my Professional Alpha Beta Peel which used a cocktail of acids at lower concentrations – which still added up to a meaningful concentration overall – and gave beautiful results with no downtime. The professional peel surged in popularity and my wife Carrie had the lightbulb moment to create an at-home version and the Alpha Beta Daily Peels were born. The at-home peel was the spark for the full skincare line that followed. If you would have told me as a teenager that I would have my own skincare brand, I wouldn’t have believed you.
What’s your skincare routine and how has it changed or stayed the same over the years?
My skin leans on the sensitive side, so I tend to stick to a fairly regimented routine throughout the year. In my practice, I preach the importance of consistency in order to see results. That said, aside from slight seasonal changes, it has been pretty standard over the years. I absolutely love our Alpha Beta cleanser for morning and night -- it gets rid of the dirt and debris that have accumulated over 24 hours without stripping it of any natural oils or damaging the moisture barrier. From there, I apply our Alpha Beta Extra Strength Peel in the morning, followed by our IPL serum for my hyperpigmentation and sun spots morning and night, as well as our Hyaluronic Marine Moisture Cushion for hydration. At night, I’ve been using our new retinol collection to treat my aging spots and texture, which is a new addition I really enjoy.
How do you introduce your product line to someone who has never tried it before? What would be your must-try’s? Any underrated or under appreciated products that we should know about?
Before giving any skincare recommendations, I examine my patients’ skin type. Depending on their level of sensitivity, my #1 recommendation is our Alpha Beta Daily Peel. It comes in three different strengths depending on your skin concern and level of sensitivity and is clinically proven to provide significant improvement in texture, clarity and blemishes. An underrated product I absolutely love is our new Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Overnight Texture Renewal Peel. Overtime, you should expect to see significant improvement in fine lines, wrinkles and sagging.
What is the biggest mistake you see clients make with their skincare routine?
Pain = gain. As I mentioned before, this notion that redness, downtime and irritation is required in order to experience long-lasting results drove me so crazy that I created my own at-home chemical peel to show clients why this isn’t the case. It’s so important for consumers to understand that stripping the skin and intermittent pain is not necessary when searching for products that will create real change in your skin.
When someone hears the word “peel” they often think of visible sheets of shedding skin, but that’s not necessarily true. Can you explain what exactly a peel is and what you might expect to see happen to your skin?
A chemical peel is a two-step process that can vary in strength, depending on if the treatment is performed at-home or in-office. A peel works in two steps: step one is the acid which loosens the glue that holds dead skin cells to skin’s surface so they are removed and the new, vibrant cells underneath are exposed. The second step is the neutralizer which shuts off the acids in step one. The result is an instant glow with smoothed texture. Overtime, you will see improvements with fine lines, wrinkles, pores, hyperpigmentation and breakouts. The reason you don’t see any actual peeling is because the Alpha Beta Peel – both the professional and at-home versions – are working on the top layer of skin, specifically targeting dead skin cells. There are professional peels that are much harsher and will cause the skin to physically peel. However, as I mentioned above, pain does not equal gain. If not administered correctly, harsh peels can actually cause serious damage to the skin.
It is important to reiterate that to be a true peel, it must have two steps: acid & neutralizer. If you go to any dermatologist office, their peels are always two steps. This second step is crucial in combating any potential irritation or redness from forming.
What’s the difference between a peel you’d receive in the doctor’s office vs. at-home?
The strength of the peel. In-office peels are performed by a licensed physician or aesthetician and are much stronger. You usually would get a professional peel once per month. At-home peels are tested and safe to use at-home by consumers. They are generally less strong but used more often. For example, the Alpha Beta Daily Peels are used daily and achieves a similar result to a once per month professional peel – plus you get the added bonus of daily collagen stimulation.
You’re obviously known for bringing peels to the masses – I can personally confirm I’ve used various strengths of your peel pads without ruining my face or causing a burn, but I know many are hesitant to use something so strong at home! What are your best tips for successfully and safely using at-home peels?
Given the bad reputation chemical peels acquired years ago, I was inspired to create multiple strengths of the Alpha Beta peel in order to ensure my clients felt safe and comfortable using the product at-home. Depending on your skin type, everyone should be able to find an Alpha Beta peel best for them without fear of irritation or downtime. Not only that, the peel is so safe that it is meant to be used every day in order to see optimal results.
Ok, let’s talk about peels with acne. Good idea or a nightmare? Are there any skin types or conditions that should never use peels?
The Alpha Beta peel is a phenomenal treatment for acne. All acne starts with a clogged pore. Using the Alpha Beta Daily Peels every day ensures that pores are kept clear of dead skin cell build up. Many of my patients experience improvement in existing blemishes after a single treatment. Overtime, if used consistently, the peel should stop future breakouts from forming, too. And as I mentioned previously, every single skin type can benefit from a regular chemical peel at-home. I would just advise on reading the label and ingredients carefully in order to ensure you’re using the proper peel for your skin.
I often hear people talk about “peel season” – is that a thing? Would you advise waiting for the fall/winter to do a peel or series of peels?
The at-home peel is meant to be used every day year-round, not seasonally. Of course, you should wear sunscreen of at least SPF 30 too – but you should be doing this regardless if you are using the peel or not. For professional peels, you can get them year round but need to be extra careful about sun exposure. If you are planning a tropical vacation, I would advise waiting until you are back to start your peel series – no matter what time of the year you are traveling.
Your peel pads are designed for daily use. How does someone make sure they aren’t overdoing it?
The Alpha Beta peel went through tremendous clinical testing and ingredient testing to ensure it was safe and gentle enough to be used on a daily basis, while still providing significant improvement to the skin. If you’re integrating the peel for the first time into your routine and nervous about its effects, feel free to try it for two to three days out of the week and see how your skin responds. Generally speaking, if the skin feels hot or appears red and irritated, the moisture barrier may have been disrupted and it’s time to pull back.
Switching gears to talk about one of my most beloved possessions: your SpectraLite FaceWare LED mask. I use it every single night and I swear it’s responsible for the most dramatic reduction in my acne – ok I’ll stop fangirling now. I’m often asked about your LED products vs. cheaper options available. What makes yours different?
I’m so happy to hear that – the FaceWare is a very special tool. Unlike alternative options on the market, the DRx SpectraLite FaceWare Pro is a medical grade device and FDA approved.It went under significant rounds of testing in order to provide the best at-home treatment possible. Literally from the physical design of the device (i.e. how it sits flush to the face to ensure maximum LED penetration), to the amount of LED lights within it, to the type of lights and beyond, every component was selected with delicate care in order to guarantee optimal results and a safe experience. If used consistently, my patients should expect to see significant improvement in their blemishes (like yours!) as well as physical signs of aging.
Is there a difference between using the red and blue light treatments individually vs. using the red and blue light combo?
We created a combined setting out of convenience for my patients looking for solutions to treat their acne and premature signs of aging at the same time. While it’s perfectly fine to use the red and blue lights separately, who wouldn’t want to fight fine lines and breakouts at the same time?
A non-skincare question I ask everyone: what is your favorite pen?
I am a simple BIC Round Stic Xtra Life Ballpoint Pen type of guy. Running between patient rooms all day long, I loose too many pens too often to invest in something fancy. [Editor’s Note: I endorse this excellent pen choice. Classic, simple, reliable.]
So, what are you waiting for? Get yourself some Alpha Beta Peels or pick up the LED mask and send me a picture.
If you’re new to peel pads, check out this limited edition set that includes all 3 and would make a great gift for yourself or others! This kit is a great introduction to the brand overall, including the cleanser DDG mentioned above (a personal fave), face and body peels.
Now, time for an apology but also some insider sale info. I goofed big time and promised an ~exclusive~ discount code to subscribers, not thinking about all of the conflicting (better) existing and upcoming sales. So here’s a rundown of where and when you can get your DDG fix. A note: most retailers don’t carry every item from the brand, so you might have to do some site hopping.
Sephora: the winter sale is going on through 11/15. You can get all DDG products for 10-20% off (depending on your tier).
Violet Grey: 20% off from 11/23-11/29
B-Glowing: 25% off from 11/19-11/30
SkinStore: new deals everyday, DDG will most likely be included in their big BFCM sale.
Dermstore: details haven’t been announced yet, but if similar to other years you’ll be getting up to 30% off.
Happy shopping! Don’t forget to share, like, subscribe, ask a question etc. etc.
xx,
Jolie
P.S. Happy Red Day to all who celebrate. If you need me, I’ll be sobbing in the shower listening to the 10-minute version of All Too Well.
This was very helpful and informative, thank you! I recently heard an influencer claim chemical peels burn off a layer of skin, slowly and irreversibly thinning your skin over time. Dr. Gross’ description of how a peel works was enlightening and reassuring. I shall continue with my Dr. Gross peels!