All About Masks
the fun, skincare kind!
Hello!
Hope you’re all hanging in there, ideally somewhere with air conditioning. I know people always say it’s boring to talk about the weather, but…it is just so hot?? How could you possibly talk about anything else? I’ll try my best.
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I’ve seen some derms/estheticians say masks are great and others say they don’t do anything. Are masks worth it? Why would I use one instead of a leave-on product? What about sheet masks?
Great questions! When I first started getting into skincare I was more in the non-masking camp, operating under the assumption that nothing I wash off my face could possibly do more than leave-on products. As I’ve learned more about skincare and product development, as well as my own experience working with clients and on myself, I’ve come to understand that my previous thinking was due in part to a lack of understanding about formulations and delivery systems. It was also a reflection of my inexperience with using masks to target certain concerns and achieve desired results. Here’s what I now know:
The efficacy of a mask depends on the delivery system of the ingredients.
We know that with the right delivery system, it’s possible for ingredients to actually stay and penetrate the skin, even if leaving the product on for a short period of time. Not every mask will do what it promises, but know that with the right formulation, it is possible to use a mask that will achieve the desired result. The desired result of course depends on what kind of mask you are using!There are many different types of masks designed for different purposes.
Moisturizing/calming/reparative/soothing masks don’t dry down and often feel like thick, nourishing moisturizers. They may not have active ingredients and are best for immediate benefits, such as intense hydration or calming.
- Topicals Like Butter (JOLDEF for 10% off)
- Dermalogica Hydro Masque Exfoliant
- Naturopathica Manuka Honey Gel Mask
- TULA Self-Care Sunday Nourishing Mask
Clay masks dry down and help to pull debris from your pores. They can be helpful for congested skin.
- NIOD Flavanone Mud Mask
- Caudalie Instant Detox Mask
- Tatcha Clarifying Clay Mask
- The Ordinary Salicylic Acid Mask
- Peter Thomas Roth Sulfur Mask
Exfoliating masks, or those with active ingredients, tend to be strong and concentrated. The efficacy of these masks depends on the delivery system. You may see immediate results, such as softer, smoother skin, but they also may work best overtime and with consistent use (1-2x week), you’ll see greater results. Of course, it depends on what you’re trying to treat (acne, brightening, firming etc.) They can be a great option for people who can’t tolerate leave-on exfoliants or just want a gentler approach.
- Renee Rouleau Rapid Response Detox Mask
- HydroPeptide Miracle Mask (clay-based, but better for firming/lifting)
- Murad Vita-C Triple Exfoliating Facial (JOLDEF20 for 20% off)
- Naturopathica Sweet Cherry Enzyme Peel
- Dr. Loretta Tightening Detox Mask (this one is unique because though firming, it doesn’t dry down, you can use it around your eyes and also optionally leave on overnight. JOLIE15 for 15% off)
Sheet masks work their magic by the power of occlusion! By creating a physical barrier between your skin and the environment, it allows for the ingredients to more deeply penetrate and prevent evaporation. They usually contain lots of hydrating and moisturizing ingredients. There are some sheet masks that do much more than just hydrate, which tend to be more expensive (they’re hard to make well!) Those are best for special event prep.
- Leaders Amino Moisture Mask (my favorite for hydrating, it is so juicy)
- Talika Bioenzymes or Bubble Detox Mask (JOLIE10 for 10% off)
- 111Skin Rose Gold Brightening Mask or Sub-zero Depuffing Mask (best before events)
Overnight/sleeping masks are just thick moisturizers with occlusive ingredients to better lock in moisture overnight. You can also just use them as moisturizers.
- Youth to the People Superberry Hydrate + Glow Mask
- Tatcha Indigo Overnight Repair
- e.l.f. Holy Hydration! Overnight Sleeping Mask
As always, there are plenty of other masks that do not neatly fit into these categories, but don’t be afraid to try them!It’s okay to use masks just for fun or temporary benefits.
Masks are fun! They often look fun or silly and feel good. You might look extra glowy or hydrated for a short while. They might feel cooling after a day at the beach. It’s okay to use masks just as an extra self-care step. Maybe save for special occasions. Maybe give yourself a facial every Sunday. But also maybe you don’t ever want to use a mask at all and that’s okay.
There are many ways to mask. The mask police will not come for you.
Masks will generally tell you to apply a layer to your entire face. But what if you don’t have the same concerns everywhere? You can multi-mask (use different masks on different areas) or just use the mask on part of your face. This is particularly helpful with clay masks or any mask targeting acne or congestion, since it may be isolated to one part of your face.
You can use a thicker layer of moisturizer at night as an overnight mask. You can use a thin layer of a moisturizing mask as a moisturizer.
You can create your own sheet mask with anything you own. Purchase a reusable silicone mask and put it over a hearty layer of serum or moisturizer. I often do this in the shower ;)
Try: Dieux Forever Eye Masks, Naturium Silicone Face Mask, Experiment Avant Guard Silicone Mask (2 sizes)
You can use an exfoliating/treatment cleanser or spot treatment like a mask. This is commonly referred to as short-contact therapy, which enables the use of active ingredients with less risk of irritation. Leave the cleanser on your face for 3-5 minutes before rinsing or wash off the spot treatment after 20 minutes. I often recommend this with benzoyl peroxide as it allows for the ingredient to penetrate but eliminates the risk of bleaching your sheets and towels.
In summary, masks aren’t a complete scam. Some work wonderfully well and others are just fun to use. When using a mask, ask yourself what you’re looking to achieve and go from there.
Thanks for reading! I’m off to mask.
Have a question? Submit it below and you might just see it answered in a future issue!
xx,
Jolie
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