A Moisturizing, Hydrating Adventure
choose your fighter!
I recently read this https://www.allure.com/story/do-oils-hydrate-skin-hair and am now afraid I am doing skin all wrong. I have been using Indie Lee’s Squalene Oil as my “moisturizer” and am now finding out it…doesn’t moisturize? Should I quit life? Or just buy a different moisturizer? I have dry and sensitive old crone skin
I picked this question because it’s a great one and I love blowing people’s minds with info, but mainly because “should I quit life?” made me laugh out loud. I think this same thing quite often, like when I learned the Australian government just tells you how much you owe in taxes or anytime I think too hard about outer space. The good news is that no, you don’t have to quit life! You don’t even have to quit using your oil! You just might need to go to Sephora, which is just about the best possible solution to any problem.
The article could have come straight from my brain, and as it lays out perfectly in the very first paragraph (paid subscribers, ring any bells?!):
There are a number of words commonly used in beauty-industry marketing that sound good but don't really mean anything, scientifically speaking: nourishing, clean, revitalizing, etc. But certain terms have definitive meanings in the context of chemistry and biology, and you'd think — considering skin-care and hair-care products are all about ingredients and how they impact said skin and hair — that brands would, oh, I dunno, use those words correctly?
The words the author is referring to are hydration and moisture. They’re almost always used interchangeably and understandably so – they often go hand-in-hand and contribute to similar processes in our skin. But scientifically they have very clear, distinct meanings. Moisture refers to oil and hydration refers to water. Your skin relies on both water and oil to function and thrive. So how does that translate into what we put on our skin?
While thinking about how best to explain the differences and the reason for the confusion, I came to another realization. Moisture, or moisturization, can refer to a product category, specific ingredient or a process.
The process of moisturizing refers to replenishing and strengthening your skin barrier, the outermost layer of your skin. This process is inherently related to hydration, but scientifically they are two distinct processes.
Moisturizing ingredients, which enable this process of moisturization, include things like emollients (lighter oils that smooth, soften and fill in gaps) and occlusives (thicker oils/waxy balms that create a seal on the surface of your skin to trap this moisture and prevent water loss).
The cream or lotion product that you put on at the end of your routine is categorized as a moisturizer. But the ingredients within a moisturizer are most often a mix of both moisturizing and hydrating ingredients.
This last point is where I believe the biggest source of confusion comes from. To fully understand why face oils alone don’t count as a moisturizer, we need to separate the scientific processes/ingredient definitions from the products you put on your face.
Water, or hydration, keeps your skin plump by literally swelling your skin cells, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and improving tone and elasticity. Hydrating ingredients are also known as humectants, which means they attract and retain water, driving it deeper into your skin. Common humectants you know and love are hyaluronic acid and my personal favorite, glycerin. Though your skin does naturally have some of these humectants, it still relies on outside hydration to replenish and bind to, as well as to perform many basic cellular functions (you know, like how your entire body relies on water to function!) Oil, by definition is devoid of water, so it cannot possibly hydrate. This doesn’t mean it doesn’t contribute to the process.
As mentioned above, moisturization is essential for your skin barrier. In addition to dead skin cells, this barrier is composed of oil-based things like lipids, ceramides and fatty-acids, which protect, soften, smooth and create an occlusive seal to prevent water from evaporating from the surface of your skin. That last property, preventing water loss, is one of the main ways that hydrating and moisturizing agents work distinctly, but together to achieve the same goal of healthy, plump skin.
Now that you know your skin needs both water and oil, you might be wondering how on earth your skin has survived this long at all and why I’m not just telling you to go ahead and quit. If oil doesn’t hydrate, but it does moisturize, why can’t your facial oil be used as your moisturizer? Because what you think of as “moisturizer” (or cream or lotion), is actually a blend of humectants and emollients, providing both hydration and moisture. We call this product category “moisturizer” because our brains need to put things into categories. Sephora and Ulta need to put things into categories, too. Categorizing something as a moisturizer makes it immediately understandable to consumers. Facial oils are a distinct category because they do not have hydrating ingredients and are designed to sit on the surface of your skin and trap everything underneath. They can’t contribute to these processes of moisturization and hydration if there isn’t anything below to lock in.
For some people, facial oils are a great addition to a traditional moisturizer – you can add on top, or even mix a few drops in – to create an extra occlusive barrier. They’re particularly helpful for people with dry skin, but you could also use a thicker moisturizer that is formulated with occlusives or petrolatum-based balms, like Aquaphor. People with oily skin may stick to oil-free moisturizers (an oxymoron!) but those products still contain other moisturizing agents like ceramides and lipids. There are actually some facial oils that are non-comedogenic and help regulate sebum production and provide essential nutrients – when in doubt, a quick Google will tell you if it’s safe or not!
The takeaway? Your skin needs both water and oil. How you get there depends on your skin type, concerns and how many steps you want to have. Go all in with a hydrating serum, moisturizer and facial oil or keep it simple with one moisturizer.
To the person that submitted this question, I specifically want you to purchase one of these moisturizers and use your oil on top or with a few drops mixed in. Your dry, sensitive, old crone skin just wants some hydration! Everyone else, it’s choose your own adventure time: tap the button below for moisturizer/cream/lotion/oil/hydrator recommendations galore.
SALES
It’s Presidents’ Day (week??), which means sales on sales, because what better way to demonstrate patriotism than participating in capitalism!? I can’t think of one either, so here’s a roundup of beauty/skincare sales to look out for and some recommendations. I’ll continue to share the best sales as they get announced, so make sure you’re following me on Instagram!
Dermstore: They haven’t released their actual Presidents’ Day sale, but SkinCeuticals is currently 15% off with SKINC15.
Sephora: up to 50% off select products. I went through the entire sale and picked out the best stuff so you don’t have to.
SkinStore: up to 50% off with code PRESIDENT. SkinCeuticals will be 15% off from 2/23-2/25 with code SKINC15. Here’s my evergreen list of recs from SkinStore that are usually included in sales.
b-glowing: 25% off most brands, very few exclusions with code OBSESSION thru 2/22.
QVC: the unsung hero (?) of the most random beauty deals – Tatcha, Benefit, PTR, Lancome...it’s wild. Bookmark it. Their Presidents’ Day sale is up to 30% off hundreds of products, and if it’s your first order use SURPRISE for $10 off. Here are some recommendations from the sale. Notably, my beloved Lash Idole mascara!
HOUSEKEEPING
In the past few weeks, paying subscribers got tips on how to care for your skin when it feels impossible and my thoughts on brands such as Biossance, K18, Paula’s Choice and more. Coming up we’ll be talking at-home beauty tools and a breakdown of my recent peels & microneedling treatment. Upgrade to access the archive!
The Founding Member option will be gone at the end of this month. Founding Members get all the benefits of paying subscribers, plus the opportunity to be a product tester for me & the Hotline Skin community. Founding Members will start getting emails about opportunities in March!
I’ve spent nearly two months working with my business coach (hey, Maya!) on revamping my consult offerings. They’re coming back very soon and you can sign up to be notified here.
On Instagram, I recently reviewed my new favorite sunscreen for makeup and shared my tips on caring for dry hands.
Thanks for being here! I truly mean it. Have a wonderful long weekend. I’m off to participate in the most American of American things to do to honor our forefathers during this holiday – buy a mattress.
xx,
Jolie
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