9 common skincare questions answered
It is officially Skin Cancer Awareness Month! Have you had your yearly skin check yet? What about stocking up on sunscreen? Make an appointment on Zocdoc, then checkout all of my favorite sunscreen recommendations on the shelf. (PS — ZocDoc is an official sponsor of the Gee Thanks! Podcast!)
Learning about undertones ignited something in all of you. I think it has something to do with finally understanding something you had begrudgingly accepted you’d never understand and the powerful realization that your brain does, in fact, still work. As you know, I pick my topic each week based on your questions. I’ve never had a shortage of questions to pick from, but the past 2 weeks have been off the charts. It’s as if you finally believe that there are no stupid questions. That your questions are worthy of being asked and capable of being answered.
In an effort to get through as many as I can, today’s issue is a hodgepodge of all the questions I could answer in 250 words or fewer.
Admire my attempts at brevity and keep the questions coming!
You aren’t being deceived! LED Light Therapy can be extremely effective, has tons of clinical research to back it up and has been used in professional settings for years. It’s now available in many versions for at-home use, but I would make sure to pick one that is FDA approved for safety and has clinical studies to back it up. I use my Dr. Dennis Gross LED Light Mask every single night and have absolutely seen a difference. I know that Neutrogena’s Light Therapy Mask was recalled years ago because a few people experienced eye damage (very rare, don't fret!), but as far as I can tell, the pen is still available and is FDA approved. Red light naturally increases collagen production and blue light reduces inflammation and targets acne causing bacteria, P. acnes. You can read more about LED therapy and about the mask I have here! Here’s a middle of the road option that I haven’t tried, but have heard good things about.
(Predicting the questions I’ll get about the mask: yes, it’s worth it, especially if you would normally spend hundreds of dollars on acne products. Yes, you have to use it consistently, every night at first. I don’t know if it is really better than cheaper versions, since I haven’t tried them, but Dr. Dennis Gross is a leader in the industry and I trust the expertise that makes this one stand out. Doesn’t mean others won’t work – clearly they do! No, it doesn’t hurt and it isn’t dangerous.)
Not a scam, but you need to be wary because they aren’t for every skin type. Cleansing tools can be great, especially if they encourage you to wash your face! By nature they are going to be slightly exfoliating, so be cautious and don’t use them if you have eczema, rosacea, sensitive skin or acne. You’re basically doing the equivalent of sandblasting your skin, so if you feel at all irritated, stop immediately. You also need to be extremely careful to clean the head regularly. Devices like Foreo (which I have and use mainly in warmer months if my skin needs an extra deep clean) are easiest to clean because they have silicone bristles. Read the instructions about how to properly clean the device and do it often. So is it worth it? If it encourages you to wash your face and your skin likes it, then go for it! Otherwise, your hands work just fine.
My recommendation is the Foreo Luna. Also a pro-tip for anyone with children who need encouragement to brush their teeth: Foreo has electric silicone toothbrushes for kids that last way longer and makes brushing fun because it is basically a toy. I got one for my cousin and he is a happy brusher.
I’d love to! More than 90% of skin cancer is caused by sun exposure. 1 in 5 Americans will be diagnosed with skin cancer in their lifetime and 1 person dies of melanoma every hour. Sunscreen is the number 1 anti-aging product you can use. If you're using other skincare, but not sunscreen, you might as well stop doing everything all together because your products won’t work effectively if they are being degraded by the sun and your cells can’t absorb the nutrients while they are actively being destroyed by UV rays. Without sunscreen, your other products won’t do what they promise to do.
The main rays you need to be concerned with are UVB and UVA. UVB rays account for 5% of rays that reach your skin and cause burning – think B for burning. UVB only reaches the first layer of skin, the epidermis. UVA rays are the other 95% and the cause of aging and cellular damage because they can reach the second layer of skin, the dermis. Think A for aging. Windows only block UVB rays (only 5%!!!!), so if you’re sitting inside in front of a window, you need sunscreen. Sun damage is cumulative, so if you are sitting next to a window everyday, it adds up. I’m sure you’ve all seen this famous photograph of the truck driver. Make it a habit and you’ll have no regrets. Of course, if you are not near a window and are living your best indoor, shaded life, then keep doing you.
I received this question a few months back and have laughed every time I use my Dermapore, so thank you. For a primer on sebaceous filaments and other things Seventeen didn’t teach you, check out this issue.
Dermapore has 2 settings: extract and infuse. Extract uses ultrasonic waves to unclog pores and remove dirt, debris, oil and blackheads. Like LED therapy, ultrasonic technology is really popular in professional settings and is becoming more widely available. Dermapore works by gliding the metal spatula on a wet face – the sonic current pushes water into your pores so that, combined with the slight pressure you’re applying, makes your pores basically shoot out like a geyser. It’s very cool and extraordinarily satisfying if you, like me, derive satisfaction from extracting gunk. Infuse mode uses quick pulses to break down serums, and essences into nanoparticles that deliver them deeper into your skin. To be honest, I never use that setting.
Is it safe? Yes, if done gently and not excessively. Once a week max. It should never hurt. Watch tutorials before using. Don’t apply too much pressure. Patch test on one part of your face before going wild. Clean it after each use. I yield the rest of my word count to this advice from a dermatologist:
"It's safe to use in the right hands, but there’s a lot of room for user error. With too much pressure, the skin can break and tear, pores can permanently enlarge, and small blood vessels can break.”
I had some ideas, but then I asked my friend Sam, who had better first-hand suggestions:
Keep spoons in the freezer and put on eyes every morning. Green tea bags soaked and put in the freezer – caffeine is the key ingredient in any good under eye cream. Treat dry under eye skin like you would dry skin anywhere else (just more delicately) — layered moisturizer routine, make sure it’s applied to damp skin, make sure it’s sealed in with an occlusive.
And eat raw, local honey! You ingest the allergens instead of being exposed topically and can develop a tolerance to them without your skin flaring. That comes straight from my nurse mom.
Lots of cooling stuff for her eyes but without any irritants. Get an eye mask that lives in the freezer.
Thanks, Sam!
I bought the YSL Water Stain Lip Stain during the Sephora Sale and am pleasantly surprised. I actually thought I was purchasing the one that won the Allure Best of Beauty Award, but turns out that’s the matte liquid version, which supposedly has even more incredible staying power.
For lipstick, always use lip liner to increase longevity. My favorites are Charlotte Tilbury and NYX.
YSL Water Stain Lip Stain
YSL Liquid Matte Lip Stain
Charlotte Tilbury Lip Cheat
NYX Slim Lip Pencil
I sure do! I generally don’t recommend powders, nor do experts, because they are very hard to apply the proper amount of. Of course, powder is better than nothing and some days it might just be the best option.
Sprays are also hard to tell exactly how much you’re applying, but definitely gives better coverage than powder. Be generous with the application, close your eyes and spritz for 3-5 seconds to make sure you’re getting enough coverage. If you find sprays drying, look for spf setting sprays, which have more hydrating properties.
If you’re dry, sunscreen oils can leave a nice glow and provide adequate coverage. Sticks in general are excellent for touch ups unless you are wearing a ton of makeup. Just be sure to actually cover your entire face. I love the Supergoop! Glow Stick, which is a nice hybrid.
If you’re wearing foundation or a lot of makeup that you want to carefully preserve, the best method for reapplication was introduced to us by one of my favorite skincare follows, Hannah English. Use a dry sponge with a flat side to gently dot sunscreen on your face and continue dabbing until it is absorbed. Technique is key here so that you don’t rub off your foundation. Hannah recommends Juno over BeautyBlender because it absorbs less product, but any sponge will do. She has many detailed demos on her page and it was recently covered by here. Highly recommended watching before you try yourself.
Colorescience Sunforgettable Powder
ISDIN Daily Protection Powder
COOLA Makeup Setting Spray
Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Face Mist
Supergoop! Glow Stick
Shiseido Clear Stick
Supergoop! Glow Oil
Juno & Co. Face Sponge
I’m so excited for you, too! Think about what the product is meant to do (cleanse, brighten, moisturize etc.) and what ingredients are in it. An “active” means the product has change-making ingredients that have been clinically proven to *do something* to address the skin concerns. Acids, such as lactic, glycolic, azelaic, vitamin C are examples of actives. Acne medication, sunscreen, they both have active ingredients.
Take it slow and introduce one new product at a time so that you can assess it individually. Look at the instructions and read reviews online to see suggested usage and any warnings about potential irritations. If the product has active ingredients, take it even slower. Generally give actives a month before introducing another one and when you do introduce something new, do it on an alternate day. Active ingredients have the biggest potential to be irritating, so space out and patch test. No miracle happens overnight in skincare. It can take 3-8 weeks for you to start noticing results and consistency is key. If you don’t notice any change after 2 months, then the product may not be for you, but don’t give up if it does take time. Don’t switch things in and out and expect results.
Some products, like cleansers and moisturizers, you can generally tell pretty quickly if you like them and are safe to introduce and switch up regularly. Especially given the seasons and how your skin might need something different from day to day.
Yes, beauty products can go bad and the answer I’m going to give you is not the one you want.
With everything, if you see any change in color or smell, separation, change in texture or mold, throw away.
Products destabilize over time, making them less effective. Water-based products can grow bacteria and cause rashes, irritation and breakouts. Oils can go rancid. Any products with active ingredients have a shorter shelf life. Even unopened, if it has active ingredients, throw out after one year, especially sunscreen and acne products.
On the back of many products, you’ll find a symbol that looks like an open pot with a number inside. This is the period-after-opening symbol, or PAO, which tells you how long the product lasts once open. If it says 6M, that’s 6 months after opening. 18M is 18 months, or a year and half. If you have opened products that are past their PAO, throw them away.
Any open eye products, except powders, 3-6 months max. Open liquid products, like foundation, can last 6-8 months. Powders last up to 4 years, since they don’t carry the same risk of bacteria growth. Lip products (usually don’t contain water) are good for 2-3 years.
Unopened, sealed products without active ingredients have a shelf life of 3-5 years if stored in the right conditions. Keep your products in a cool, dry place.
If you’re unsure, use your best judgment (how does it look/smell/feel and what are the ingredients), or Google it.
Have a good time cleaning out your makeup this weekend! Don't feel bad – I had to do it recently, too. Just be sure to wear sunscreen if you're doing it by a window. Forward this to a friend who has been wearing the same lipstick since the 90s.
See you in two weeks!
xoxo, Jolie
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