Do pimple patches actually work? And other burning questions
Greetings, friends! Today we are going deep into two questions and there’s no time to waste, let’s just dive in.
Can you please break down the differences between pimple patches and how to use them?
As a pimple patch evangelist, it would be my absolute pleasure. It’s important to remember that pimple patches are literally a bandaid solution – a reactive response when the inevitable happens. To actually prevent acne, you need proactive measures and if you’re having consistent breakouts or going through dozens of patches at a time, it is time to go to a dermatologist.
HYDROCOLLOID
Type of pimple: Surface acne, whiteheads, pimples you are just dying to pop.
What’s in it?: Most hydrocolloid patches are just that – straight up hydrocolloid.
🌟🔬Science Time🌟🔬: Hydrocolloid is an occlusive, moisture-retentive and breathable dressing that has been used for wound healing long before the pimple patch craze. The dressing adheres to the skin to create a healing environment that protects the open wound. I asked Dr. Danielle Rome (also my best friend from high school nbd) why hydrocolloid heals. She explained that hydrocolloid creates a moist environment, which allows faster healing than dry wounds, and traps fluid secretion, bacteria and debris to gently debride the wound. (I think debride is more of an MCAT than an SAT word – it means “to remove damaged tissue or foreign objects from a wound.” We love it.) If you’re like me, you likely grew up with the assumption that pimples need to dry out. Dr. Rome explained that a moist environment heals acute wounds more rapidly than dried out wounds due to easier migration of epidermal cells (the uppermost skin cells!) and also by exposing the wound to its own fluid which is rich in growth factors and enzymes involved in the healing process. Whoa, ok! But Jolie, we’re talking pimples, not wounds. And here, my friends, we have arrived at the sermon I hope to be remembered for.
How to properly use: Since now you know how hydrocolloid works, let’s apply our new knowledge to pimples. A hydrocolloid pimple patch absorbs pus and oil, reduces inflammation, prevents anything from getting in and prevents you from picking – all thereby encouraging faster healing and reducing the chance of scarring. Here’s the thing: most people, don’t consider the open wound part. You slap a pimple patch on a ripe ol’ whitehead and a few hours later take it off with the whitehead, call it a day, then complain that “pimple patches don’t do anything.” Now, repeat after me: if you rip the whitehead off your pimple you are then exposing an open wound. While it will likely be flatter and less inflamed, if you still have an uncovered opening with excess fluid on the surface of your skin, you are not going to see any healing, instead exposing it to the elements, allowing in dirt and bacteria and exacerbating the problem. That's not debriding! So what do you do? You gently clean the area, and apply another pimple patch and finally experience the magic of pimple patches. This new patch will continue absorbing all of the remaining gunk and prevent new gunk from getting in. I tend to continue replacing my patches until I’m confident the opening is completely closed. Here’s a handy guide for post-patch protocol. In addition to speeding up the healing process, pimple patches are just great for preventing picking at your skin, which will very likely lead to scarring. In a pinch, using a hydrocolloid bandaid theoretically would work, but they are not optimized to wear on the face as they are thicker, larger and could be irritating. Cutting them up also reduces their ability to fully adhere and make a seal. I mentioned above that nearly all hydrocolloid patches are straight hydrocolloid, but recently some versions with additional acne fighting ingredients have come out. So far, none that I have tried have seemed to make a noticeable difference.
What brand do you recommend?: I go through many pimple patches and have tried dozens of brands. While any 100% hydrocolloid will have the same properties, there are two superior brands in my opinion. Buy these, heal your skin.
I was loyal to another brand for a longtime until I tried these. They come in two sizes, adhere perfectly and are truly virtually invisible due to their tapered edges. I wear them in public all the time. They come on a perforated sheet which makes them easy to remove from the backing without having to dig your fingers under the edges – a game changer. They also sell larger Spot Control Covers to use on clusters of breakouts. (Hot-tip: you can get a 96-pack in the old branded packaging for just $3 more on Amazon.)
While I admit I thought they were silly at first, I quickly fell in love after trying. Who doesn’t love accessorizing and the patches themselves are highly effective. I also love the idea behind the product – de-stigmatizing pimples by refusing to hide them. The shape actually enhances their ability to stick to the contours of your face and are great for covering pimples in tricky areas like the corners of the nose and mouth. If you’re going to be staring at yourself on Zoom all day, might as well make it fun.
MICRODART
Type of pimple: Early-stage, under the surface, painful, cystic zits, not poppable.
What’s in it?: Microdart patches contain teeny tiny, self-dissolving microneedles that flood the epicenter of your pimple with acne-fighting ingredients. Exact ingredients & formulation vary by brand, but generally some combination of salicylic acid, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and tea-tree oil.
How to properly use: Clean the pimple (including the surrounding area where the adhesive ring will stick), wait for it to dry and gently press the patch into the pimple. You will likely feel the sliiiiightest little pricking, but I promise it is not painful – if anything, it’s quite satisfying to feel like you’re really attacking it. Unlike hydrocolloid patches, which suck gunk up to the surface, the purpose of microdart patches is to flatten the pimple. Leave it on for a few hours or overnight. Once you take the patch off, you will hopefully see significant improvement and feel less pain! Apply another one if you feel like you need it. However, if the microdart patch has in fact brought the zit to a head (i.e. you see some white, it theoretically looks like it could eventually be poppable), change course and use a hydrocolloid instead.
What brand do you recommend?: Again, I’ve tried many and while they all share similar properties, there is one to rule them all. They’re a Gee Thanks! Favorite for a reason.
ZitSticka Killa:
More expensive than competitors, but absolutely worth it. The sturdiest, most adherent and most effective. Excessive packaging, but you’ll get over it once you use them. The kit also comes with their CLEANA swab, which includes additional acne-busting ingredients that you use to clean the area beforehand. You can also use the wipe on other surface zits. CLEANA rocks my world and they should sell it in bottles. ZitSticka, if you’re reading this, this is my public plea to please sell CLEANA on its own.
Acropass Trouble Cure: Second best, more budget-friendly option.
(Some brands sell microdart patches intended to reduce dark spots (like post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation post-acne) by flooding them with brightening ingredients. I’ve heard some see an initial reduction in redness, but I haven't found them to be effective. Dark spots can’t be cleared in a few hours – the better you treat your pimples, the quicker they will heal!)
I don't understand sheet masks. Do they do anything? When are you supposed to use them? Aren't they wasteful?
Questions like these are my favorite because they allow me to venture down new Internet rabbit holes, interrogate my existing beliefs, learn many new things and, always a fun bonus, try a lot of new products. I started by crowdsourcing opinions. Sheet mask users reported using them for overall hydration, when feeling extra dry, to calm down “freaking out” skin, to reduce rosacea redness, “just for fun” and for special occasions. The most common sentiments from people who don’t use them were: wasteful, messy/drippy, poor fit on face, sliding off if not sitting still, risk of breakouts and “I don’t see a difference.” I share some opinions on both sides. I’ve found them beneficial for an extra boost of hydration, great for skin prep before an event and also it’s just fun to put things on my face. But they do often fit weirdly, there’s no avoiding the pang of guilt and I have wondered myself what the point even is. I looked into the benefits and uses and tried my best to understand just how wasteful single-use sheet masks are. Always remember there is nuance to everything and the best way to make an informed decision and be a more mindful consumer is to learn the facts, and decide for yourself. Do what you want, I’m not judging you (for sheet masks, that is).
What are sheet masks?: Sheet masks are thin “sheets” made of varying materials and infused with lots of serum and nutrients. They originally gained popularity for deep hydration and as part of the Korean Skincare routine. In addition to being packed with nourishing ingredients, the masks themselves also act as an occlusive barrier that allow all of the other products on your face to penetrate deeper into the skin without evaporating. Sheet masks are made of water and hydrophilic (water-loving) ingredients that aid with deeper penetration into the skin. The result? Ideally, more hydrated, radiant, smoother and plumper skin – all words you’ll commonly find on packaging. In addition to hydration, they are commonly used for redness or irritation, as they can quickly and effectively deliver soothing ingredients right into the skin. While hydrating sheet masks can be used often, even everyday, you can also find ones packed with exfoliating ingredients, so be cautious of overuse. Molly Lamb, the founder of Skin By Molly facial studio in Brooklyn, New York loves sheet masks, “they’re a great way to hydrate the skin without feeling too rich or oily so they are safe for acne prone skin in most cases. They are also wonderful for traveling. Be sure to always choose a mask for your specific skin type.”
What if I don’t see a difference?: The results you see and should expect depend on the type and frequency of use. After using a good hydrating sheet mask, you should definitely notice your skin feeling hydrated because you basically just gave your skin barrier a nutrient and moisture-packed hug. Of course, this effect will fade as the moisture evaporates, which is why sheet masks are often used before special events for an extra boost. As we know, the key to healthy, non-irritated, less-inflamed skin is a cared-for skin barrier. Hydrated skin heals faster. For people with dehydrated skin, though the effect may not last long or be overwhelming at first, if used consistently, the effects will be cumulative as your barrier is continuously supported. Molly Lamb elaborated on the immediate effects, but reminded us that consistency is key: “you should see softer, glowier skin after one use of a home mask. Best results are always with continued use though! Nothing is truly overnight.” Masks targeted for acne or redness aren’t going to make the problem disappear immediately, but the soothing ingredients will reduce inflammation, while also providing necessary moisture. As Alicia Yoon, esthetician and founder of Peach & Lily explained to me, even if you don’t see immediate results, using a mask allows your other products to work harder by providing additional hydration. She specifically noted that hydration and moisture are key to battling hyperpigmentation, so if you are using brightening serums like vitamin C, you’ll see better, faster results overtime with the addition of a hydrating sheet mask. She also advised to make sure you aren’t leaving on sheet masks until they are dry because otherwise you risk a reverse osmosis effect and actually drawing moisture back out of the skin. Most masks will have instructions to use for 10-20 minutes.
How wasteful are they, really?: This is the toughest question to answer because my baseline knowledge is limited, but also because the specific research doesn’t really exist. What we do have is knowledge about landfills, methane emissions, manufacturing processes and the overall environmental impact of generating waste of all kinds, which sheet masks are inevitably part of. We know that any single-use product, beauty and otherwise, is not the most sustainable option. As one environmental policy advisor put it, “every purchasing decision you make is an opportunity to consider the planet and the people on it.” Zeroing in on what we know about masks and their environmental footprint, you can think about the packaging, materials and ingredients involved. The masks themselves come in disposable packaging and often have a wrapping over the mask itself. Many of these components are not recyclable or compostable, so they will inevitably wind up in landfills. Masks themselves are also tricky because even if they are made from biodegradable materials like cotton or biocellulose, they may be soaked in ingredients that prohibit them from fully breaking down. You can look for masks that explain how to recycle/compost each component or that have evidence of their biodegradability. You can also explore the option of TerraCycle, which recycles otherwise hard-to-recycle products, especially skincare products. Through my research and conversations with experts, it became clear that yes, using a sheet mask produces waste, but they aren’t single handedly responsible for our planet’s demise. There are many other habits to adopt and considerations to explore in order to be a more mindful, sustainable beauty consumer that go way beyond giving up sheet masks, including educating yourself about the environmental impact of the beauty industry at large (these pieces from Teen Vogue and Harper's Baazar are good starting points.) I appreciated the overview provided in this article, particularly the call for manufacturers to show responsibility by providing clear instructions about disposal, a sentiment that was shared by others I spoke to in the field – personal responsibility is important, but shifting the blame solely to consumers is not fair, nor the most effective way to cause widespread change. Feeling overwhelmed? Same and so is everyone – sustainability in beauty is a complicated, confusing, often contradictive issue that's going to take a lot to solve and certainly not by this newsletter (can you imagine?!)
If you’re feeling guilty about using a sheet mask, there are other impactful changes you can make in your skincare routine to live more sustainably, like using cotton pads and q-tips. Mask-wise, in addition to looking at materials/ingredients, you can look for those that don’t come wrapped in a sheet, are sold in packs, or reusable. Ultimately, it’s about balance and values and no one here is going to tell you the right way to live them. If you want to sheet mask, go ahead. If not, all good too.
Now that we understand their purpose and usage, we can think about how you want to move forward with masking. You’re allowed to consider your stance while also being sheet mask curious. That’s where I’m at, too. I took into consideration concerns about dripping, fit, waste, sensitivity and effectiveness, and embarked on a noble quest to find sheet masks worth recommending.
Extreme hydration, before bed:
Leaders Amino Moisture Mask
This mask is my beloved and the only sheet mask I have ever consistently purchased. Jam packed with 17 different amino acids and hydrating ingredients, it's the gallon water bottle equivalent of skincare. Personally fits my face perfectly and though it seems like it would be a drippy mess, just pat the extra juice all over your skin. I even wear a robe and squeeze out any remainder from the package itself to slather all over my body.
Hydrate, soothe & good for sensitive skin:
Troxederm Repair Essence Sheet Mask
“The Mask That Went Viral Overnight” beloved & made famous by Korean celebrities and dermatologists due to its star antioxidant ingredient troxerutin, clinically proven to soothe irritation and inflammation. It includes ingredients to moisturize, brighten and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Not going to lie, my skin looked fantastic after this mask: plump, hydrated and my forehead looked like it was asking for makeup? Very essence heavy, but not globby and no drips. Better than expected, should have believed this review I found: “Best sheet mask ever. I would bathe in this daily lol”
Hydrate, awaken, reset & make up for a poor night (or 100) of sleep:
23 Years Old Cocoon Willow Silky Mask
A favorite in the sheet mask community after Korean skincare blogger, Jude Chao (@fiddysnails), sang its praises for evening skin tone, moisturizing and firming, particularly when your skin is seeing the dry, dullness brought on by neglect and sleep deprivation. The mask itself is quite thicker than others with the same claims and saturated with ingredients like silk cocoon extract, known for its collagen and moisture, along with brightening and soothing ingredients to give your tired skin a reset. Perhaps the most notable thing about this mask is that it does not have a mouth hole and extends down to your neck – intentional design elements to service often neglected parts of your skin, which I loved, but also looks extra horrifying, like you’re wearing a hockey mask. Open it over your sink, but once applied, the thickness and amount of fabric easily absorb the essence, preventing excess dripping. The mouth part was a little uncomfortable at first, but I quickly got over it. Once I took it off, my skin looked awake, plump and ready for makeup (or not). Perhaps I even looked 5 years younger.
Big events or no time for a facial:
Charlotte Tilbury Instant Magic Facial Dry Mask – A celebrity favorite, award-winning and clinically proven magic mask that is completely dry and unlike any other. It uses a “bio-metric vector delivery system” and the warmth of your skin to allow the ingredients to be penetrated deep into your skin cells. Even after researching, a description like that immediately makes me think “scam!” and I can’t say I fully understand the technology, but my god, I’m not being dramatic when I say I looked like I had just gotten a facial. I still don't really get it!!! My skin looked noticeably smoother, brighter and the type of hydration you notice when you have had time to let serums properly absorb, not like the excess of moisture you’ll experience and need to pat in after a regular hydrating mask. My skin was R E A D Y to go, no wonder this is a staple for celebs before red-carpet events. The mask stays put using ear loops and you gently massage to activate. A word of warning: you’re not going to feel it “working” so don’t over massage trying to feel something activate. I made the mistake of doing so, which I later read is a common rookie mistake and can be irritating, which I experienced around my nose. It dissipated over a few hours, but just a single gentle massage once over is enough to let the magic work. It can be reused up to 3 times, just put it back in its pouch. If I was getting married or had a special event, I would use it once a month prior just to make sure I got the technique down and again the night before or even day of.
Quick hydration boost:
Artis Phantom Silks Skincare Primer Hyaluronic Acid
This mask happened so fast I didn’t understand what was happening until it was over, but I can’t wait to do it again. Described as a “dissolving 2-piece face mask,” it uses nanofiber technology to deliver a high concentration of low weight hyaluronic acid into your skin. Hyaluronic acid is a humectant that draws and retains moisture in your skin. It’s the single ingredient in this mask, making it a great option to prime dull, dehydrated skin to better absorb moisturizer after. Be sure to apply with completely dry hands. Once on, generously spray any facial mist, remove the top layer and the mesh nanofiber has already disappeared, completely absorbed. It’s definitely a bit extra and I wouldn’t use it regularly, but good to keep on hand for special occasions or when skin really needs a hydration boost.
To exfoliate, need a full refresh:
ZitSticka Press Refresh
A 2-piece hydrogel mask infused with three types of exfoliating acids and hydrating, soothing ingredients. The mask uses “penetrative graphene tech; a material that syncs with your body heat. Graphene powder has the same far infrared waves as the human body, increasing your skin’s conductivity and ability to absorb ingredients.” When you remove from the package it’s extremely slippery, but by far the best fitting sheet mask I’ve found as the 2-pieces allow you to adjust it perfectly to fit your face. Absolutely no excess goo and once it’s on, it stays put. I could fully move around, tilt my head, look down at my phone without budging. A great option for someone who doesn’t need to exfoliate very regularly and wants to pack a punch and be done with it or when you just need to “press refresh.”
For eyes:
Burt’s Bees Rejuvenating Eye Mask with Rosehip & Jojoba Oil – I wasn’t planning on including any eye masks in my research, but while perusing the offerings at CVS (none of which made the cut), an employee told me, “these are really great,” so I obviously had to try. Friends, these are an under-the-radar hit!!!!! Unlike any other single-use eyemask, they are thin, like thin sheet mask material that were actually able to be manipulated and fitted to the contours of my eyes without any sliding. They also smelled incredible, just a gentle hint of rosehip. Afterwards my eyes felt VERY nice – not a common experience for eye masks. Not sticky nor greasy, but as if I had applied the thinnnnest layer of oil under my eyes. The packaging also helpfully noted that it could be recycled with TerraCycle and their website includes a helpful guide on how to do so.
Hydration in a multipack:
A'PIEU Hyaluthione Soonsoo Daily Sheet Mask – A pack of 33 super thin hydrating masks in one tub to reduce packaging and make daily/regular masking less wasteful and you can recycle the tub when you’re done. Made of 100% tencel, the masks are extremely thin and feels fancy because it comes with a tweezer to hygienically pull each one out. The main complaint of the mask is the poor fit for some – the eye holes are small and close together and the mouth slit is off. I agreed with the strange mouth slit, but personally I thought the eye holes, though very small, fit me perfectly because they actually cover the entire eye contour area whereas most don’t. Once you get it fitted on your face, it stays put and not drippy. It’s very lightly fragranced. Overall, not a bad way to get five layers of hyaluronic acid into your skin.
Reusable:
Avant Guard Reusable Sheet Mask – My friend Sam recommended this reusable option, praising its size options (unheard of!) Honest Beauty also makes one. Reusable masks use the same concept as traditional sheet masks, by creating an occlusive barrier that locks in moisturize and prevents evaporation, but the results depend on what you are using underneath – use with any moisturizing products you have. Dieux’s Forever Eye Mask, which has sold out multiple times, employ the same concept to make any eye cream a mask.
See you in two weeks! xoxo, Jolie
P.S. All the past issues are now available here!
As always, you can find all the products mentioned in this and past issues on this spreadsheet.
A photoshoot with the mouthless 23 Years Old Cocoon Willow Silky Mask
+ a hydrogel eye mask because I'm extra
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